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CFB: Copenhagen

Whether your passion is coffee, food or booze, Copenhagen is a wonderful place to spend a long weekend. Heck, Copenhagen Airport is a wonderful place to spend a long weekend! I feel confident saying it is the best airport I’ve ever been to. Anyway, if you do decide to venture outside of the airport, here is a handy guide to where to (and where not to) eat, drink and be merry while you are in Copenhagen.

First though, a few things about getting around. Everyone says Copenhagen is very walkable, and that’s true to an extent, but if you will be making trips to and from Refshaleøen and Norrebro (which you should!), you will quickly find Copenhagen is not as walkable as everyone says. Everyone rides bikes for a reason ; ) You should also ride a bike if you can (or want to) but the biking culture is pretty serious about following the rules of the road so take a second to learn them if you are planning on biking.

If you don’t want to bother with a bike, all the buses and trains (there are subways as well as something more like a regional commuter train) and ferries run on the same ticketing system, somewhat like the MTA. If you are staying for a while you can pay 80 DKK for the Metrocard equivalent and then put money on it whenever you need at subway stations. Alternatively you can buy multiday passes. Finally, you can pay per ride on the bus, but note that the bus drivers are not able to make a ton of change. There aren’t any turnstiles for any of the transportation, you just need to have your ticket on you in case anyone asks to see it.

Riding the public transportation is relatively expensive compared to most other public transportation systems I’ve seen, but it is pretty useful and pretty reliable, which is good since there is no Uber in Copenhagen. They have plenty of taxis, but the public transportation was so reliable we never had the need to use a taxi. Even getting to and from the airport is super easy; the M2 subway goes from the airport to stations in the Indre By (“center city”–don’t ask me how to pronounce it though : )

If you do decide to go for a walk, take the opportunity to walk through one of the cemeteries. Danish Cemeteries are absolutely stunning; they have big gorgeous trees everywhere in them and people seem to sit under big trees just enjoying the cool breeze. It’s much more like a great city park than a cemetery; it just happens to have some tombstones around.

Note also that Denmark is almost a cashless society. Many shops do not even accept cash and the only thing we needed cash to pay for was the bus fare if we were paying on board (rather than buying a ticket from the train station as I mentioned above). Trust me, unless you collect foreign currency as a souvenir, you don’t need any Danish Kroner : )

Where To Stay

Hotel SP 34
As I always say, if it’s good enough for the New York Times, it’s good enough for me. Our room was tiny, with a Juliet balcony, but it was well decorated like a West Elm catalog. This cozy boutique hotel, had a cool, casual, relaxed vibe. It was in in a great location – near the Torvelhallerne market, and close, but not too close to shopping areas. They are a part of the Brochner hotel group which offers complementary Portuguese red, white & sherry wine from 5-6 pm everyday (& the best darn potato chips you’ve ever tasted). They have 5 other hotels in Copenhagen (soon to be 6), they all have a different vibe, and as a guest of SP 34 you are welcome to visit the other hotels during happy hour.

Don’t Miss

Amass – Modern European – Refshaleøen
Can I give it six stars? A fantastic evening where the food, wines and service all came together perfectly. Everything we tasted was amazingly delicious (which is not as common for a tasting menu as you might think), the wines were interesting and paired perfectly with the food and the service was fun but not unprofessional. It isn’t cheap but it is worth it.

The chef, Matt Orlando, has had a lot of fine dining experience–including at Per Se in the late 2000s with some other very special people who just happen to own our favorite restaurant–so it’s perhaps no surprise that he would be good at this, but the dinner we had was really on another level. To borrow an analogy from baseball, they pitched a perfect game. We will definitely be back when we are in Copenhagen again.

Broaden & Build – Brew Pub – Refshaleøen
If you can’t get in to (or don’t want to shell out for) dinner at Amass (above) then you could do a lot worse than this. The beers are all amazing, creative but still well balanced. The food is taken just as seriously as at Amass (even if the food itself is a bit less serious, which is perfect for the setting). It’s a great place to spend an evening with friends, eating dinner and having great beers. I promise we are not paid spokespeople; Matt Orlando is just really killing it in Copenhagen right now.

Kyros & Co. – Cocktail Bar – Indre By
It may not look like much from the outside but this is really a great cocktail bar on the inside. Vodka-tonic types need not apply, but for any true cocktail aficionado this is a must-do. If Ana is on staff, tell her you want to go crazy and she will sort you out. The cocktails are as bespoke as possible and many of the ingredients are of the homemade, genius mad-scientist type. They distill their own gin, have small-batch rums that smell and taste like no other rums you’ve ever seen. A really fantastic, personal cocktail experience in Copenhagen.

Coffee Collective – Coffee Shop – Various Locations
This is probably the best coffee in a city with a lot of good coffee shops. The nitro cold brew is the bet I’ve had; normally nitro cold brews are not flavorful or texturally pleasant but this one was both. I finally felt like I understand what a nitro cold brew is all about. The flat white is also top-notch and at the Torvehallerne location they don’t have any food so you can bring a pastry from Laura’s across the aisle to enjoy with your coffee.

Reffen – Outdoor Food Market – Refshaleøen
Think of it as the Smorgasburg of Copenhagen, but really chill–even on a Saturday night–with a great view of the sunset. There are so many cool food booths representing many different cuisines here that we couldn’t try them all but those we did try definitely did not disappoint. For sure this is one more place to add to a long list of great places in Copenhagen to hang out with friends, eating and drinking and having a good time.

Arket Store & Cafe – Cafe – Indre By
I’m not much of a shopper, but there are not too many places I’d rather be having a coffee while Brynnie is looking around the store. The espresso is on-point, silky and rich in a cappuccino and the cold brew was actually one of the better cold brews I’ve had, period. Well done for a cafe inside a clothing store. Also note they have a location in the airport, which is not only a good choice for a last-minute shopping spree but also definitely your best option for coffee in terminal.

Admiralgade 26 – Modern European – Indre By
Great little spot for dinner and wines right around the corner from Ved Stranden 10 (which are owned by the same people). The food is excellent, the wine list is very good and the service is too. They have a lot of good choices by the glass (even some that aren’t necessarily on the menu) and can definitely help you find something you’ll love.

Sonny – Cafe – Indre By
Great coffee from a slick La Marzocco Strada and great smørrebrød for breakfast. Potato bread was great but the avocado bread was even better! Breakfast does not seem to be much of big event in Copenhagen, so this may have been the best choice for a good breakfast (even if it’s just smørrebrød and pastries) that we found in the center city.

Mirabelle – Cafe & Wine Bar – Nørrebro
Cute little spot for all day dining, right next to Bæst and BRUS. It’s a bit on the expensive side, but this was the place that we found that by far took breakfast the most seriously in Copenhagen. The pastries and breads are made in house (you can literally watch the bakers do their thing through the glass wall that separates the dining room from the bakery) and hoo boy are they delicious. The breakfast portions are very generous–one plate of eggs and a pastry or two is definitely enough for two people. They have a good-looking selection of wine too in case you are too late for breakfast.

John’s Hotdog Deli – Hot Dogs – Vesterbro
Located in Kødbyen (the Meatpacking District) among a bunch of other really cool stuff, but definitely don’t overlook this hot dog. The dogs and buns are of course good and even the slightly surly (or maybe just Danish) service can’t take away from the magic that is the toppings table. 20+ creative relishes and pickles turn this into a hot dog extravaganza. You’ll need a few dogs to try all the toppings…and you’ll definitely want to try all the toppings. My suggestion for the perfect Kødbyen afternoon with your best buds? Grub up here and then go brew up next door at Warpigs. You can thank me later.

ROAST Coffee – Coffee – Indre By
Coffee shop in the center city with a strong coffee game. They roast their own beans and make a mean cappuccino. They only have coffee, but there is something to be said for doing one thing and doing it well.

Steff’s Place – Hot Dogs – Airport
I know, I know, it’s a hot-dog stand in the airport, but it’s seriously really good. If you have ever been to Iceland then you know Scandinavians know how to do hot dogs right. Maybe it’s just because you can get it to take on the airplane, but in my book Steff’s Place is just a notch or two below Bæjarins Beztu in Reykjavik. This is a totally brilliant alternative to the usual airport food; you can’t go wrong with two regular dogs with everything on ’em–most importantly those fried onions and pickles!

Illums Bohlighus – Shopping – Indre By
In the city center, there is Illums Bolighus, this beautiful Danish Department store. Filled with Danish art, furniture, home goods, and clothing–I could have spent hours here. The Danish design is just stunning.; the perfect combination of function & fashion.

If you have time/are in the neighborhood

Hija de Sanchez – Tacos – Torvehallerne
From a stand in between the two market buildings at Torvehallerne, the tacos were technically proficient, but some of the flavors were just a bit…off (the cheese taco was not nearly as delicious as it could have been—too much crema). On the other hand, some flavors were off the hook (cabbage taco sounds weird but was so good). The tacos fly out of the kitchen though so if you find one you like it won’t take too long to order another one. Overall a good–if somewhat overhyped–spot for a quick snack.

Speaking of Torvehallerne Market, it’s part farmer’s market, part food hall, and while that sounds really cool (and probably is really cool if you live right in the neighborhood), we never figured out how to love this market. The stalls are all interesting enough, but none of them make you go “omg I haaave to try that”. Like I said, it’s probably more of a local’s market than a tourist’s market.

Den Økologiske Pølsemand (DØP) – Hot Dogs – Indre By
Solid, organic hotdogs from these two streetcarts in the middle of Copenhagen. The dogs are a great snack overall but the buns are a bit hard since they are made from whole grains and sourdough. Unfortunately I think I’m just too partial to good ol’ fashioned white or potato bread; sometimes you just shouldn’t mess with a classic.

CUB Coffee Bar Boldhusgade – Coffee Shop – Indre By
A comfy and cozy coffee shop down a flight of stairs in between Ved Stranden 10 and Amiralgade 26. It’s just a coffee shop, with a few pastries and a solid if unspectacular flat white, but the real draw of this place is as a place to hole up when the weather is not so nice and do some work or read a book.

Cafe Atelier September – Cafe and Wine Bar – Indre By
Super-cute all-day cafe that has good coffee and a few typical breakfast options like avocado bread or a soft-boiled egg with cheese and rye bread. There is not a ton of seating so try to go a bit on the early side. Very good coffee–filter and espresso were both solid–though confusingly there are no bathrooms so maybe get that second cappuccino to go.

I’m pretty sure this vintage Porsche is part of the decor ; )

Warpigs Brewpub – Barbecue/Brewery – Vesterbro
GIANT brewery and barbecue place in Kødbyen. Lots of great beers on tap, both from the brewery and guest taps. It’s a great place to hang out–outside if it’s nice (though there is no shade) or inside if it’s not so nice. Either way there is plenty of space. The barbecue is good if not great, but then again Denmark isn’t Texas. The pulled pork–always the safest bet–is smokey and moist and delicious. The brisket however was dry so I would skip it next time and go with some of the more non-traditional BBQ dishes on the menu.

Prolog Coffee Bar – Coffee Shop – Vesterbro
A small shop in the Meatpacking District, they have a nice espresso machine and make a good if not great flat white. It’s not necessarily worth going out of your way for, but if you need a coffee after a day of eating and drinking in Kødbyen then this is probably your best option.

BRUS – Brewpub – Nørrebro
A giant pub that has some good snacks and a big list of great beers. It’s really well-decorated and comfy on the inside. The food portions are on the smaller side and the beers are on the expensive side but it is a good place to hang out with friends and a good place to pick up some beers to go in case you are having a picnic.

Kompa’9 – Cafe – Indre By
A cute little place, with a vintage chic interior, good coffee and a solid breakfast. They had a great avocado toast topped with a tomato powder (!) and accompanied by a few roasted tomatoes. They also had some perfectly cooked scrambled eggs served with spinach and mushrooms. Nothing mind-blowing but a solid option to start your day right.

Mikkeller & Friends – Beer Bar – Nørrebro
There are plenty of Mikkeller-owned places to drink great beer in this city but the original is a pretty good setting to do so. Lots of taps, good Mikkeller beers and guest beers, helpful service and–if the weather is nice–some tables across the street to sit at and people watch. Since they don’t have any food, you are welcome to bring your own. Note also there is a Mikkeller in the airport in case you weren’t yet convinced it is the best airport ever.

Malmo – Day Trip – Sweden (!)
Malmo is the third largest city in all of Sweden but (at least on the Sunday morning we visited) it felt like more of a small town than a major city. Malmo is only a 40-minute train ride away from Copenhagen. Even though the trip is short, make sure to pack your passport (they do check it on the train)!

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Once in Malmo, check out the Malmo Saluhall a great food hall in the center of the town. It was the only spot we found that actually got crowded on a Sunday! Inside, there are quite a few good choices, including wood-fired pizza place, tapas and seafood, but our favorites were Pink Head, the Asian noodle bar and Poms Mackor, a beer and sandwich bar.

Gro Spiseri – Supper Club – Østerbro
Tucked on a side street in a neighborhood and up a long flight of spiral stairs is the rooftop farm restaurant, Gro Spiseri. Gro has a gorgeous rooftop farm filled with organic flowers, herbs and vegetables. It even houses some chickens and two rabbits. We were greeted by two big bonfires, the setting sun, sparkling wines, and new friends. There are twenty-four seats at one long table inside of a greenhouse. There are three chefs that talk you through each of the four courses and one person at the front of the house serving great wines. Of course, with any tasting menu make sure to tell them in advance if you have any dietary restrictions, and they are more than willing to accommodate. Gro is just one of those rare, special places where you are able to sit with strangers and have fantastic food and share great conversation with people around the world. The world needs more restaurant experiences like this.

Manfreds – Wine Bar – Nørrebro
On one of the cutest streets in Copenhagen, this place was a wonderful spot to enjoy a beautiful farm fresh lunch. We had the Zucchini topped with olive oil, fresh figs and toasted nuts. Chicken sausage with pistachios, street corn with a tomato butter and cheese and a tomato pesto salad. They had beautiful wines to pair with the courses.

Ved Stranden 10 – Wine Bar – Indre By
Cute wine bar on the canal. They are also importers are Austrian wines, so they serve a lot of Austrian wines. On Monday nights they have a Monday night meal. Which by American standards is a snack. It apparently rotates every week. When we had it we enjoyed a Roast beef slider with a horseradish sauce, crispy onions and crunchy lettuce and a pork sandwich with a spicy mayo and cracklings. Both were absolutely delish!

Den Vandrette – Wine Bar – Indre By
The food is here is pretty hit-or-miss but the wine is for real. Bryn even recognized some industry people on the Monday night we visited, so you know it’s good. They have some communal seating but if you want to be the most comfortable be sure to make reservations. They have a good selection of wines by the glass, but the pro move (as we witnessed firsthand from the pros in attendance) is to go with friends and order some bottles from the cellar.

Nebbiolo Winebar Wine Bar – Indre By
This is a cozy, modern spot with great outdoor seating as well. We were there on a Monday night around 10:00p and it was pretty crowded. There isn’t a wine by the glass list at this bar, but the Italian staff is super knowledgeable and let you sample a few wines they think you’ll enjoy because, they want to make sure that you are getting a glass that makes you happy. Bonus – You get a small plate of truffled sausage, cheese, olives, and bread sticks included with your wine.

Don’t Bother

Restaurant Barr – Modern European – Indre By
Much ado was made about this place’s beer bar. Well, much ado about nothing, I say! We showed up around 5:00p on a Saturday and somehow there was only a small outdoor section of maybe 20 seats that were being offered for people who just wanted to have a drink. There was no one at all inside the beer bar but apparently all the tables were reserved (even though the website said no reservations for the beer bar are required). At any rate, the beer wasn’t even that good; Bryn’s session pale ale was decent, but my IPA had a definite flaw, a very off taste, somewhat like cheesy old hops. The only saving grace was we didn’t have to stick around that long.

Det Vide Hus – Coffee – Indre By
This place came highly recommended from many different and reliable sources, but I thought it was just ok. I only had the filter coffee–I didn’t try the espresso–but overall it was nothing really special. Maybe their breakfast is good? For coffee though, I would much rather walk a few extra blocks to the Coffee Collective in Torvehallerne.

Democratic Coffee – Coffee – Indre By
Based on the coffee only it was somewhat disappointing. The flat white was a bit thin and sour. It was drinkable but just not quite what I expected since it seems like a legit coffee shop. Maybe it was just an off day?

OC Depot – Coffee – Torvahallerne
I had high hopes for this coffee shop as the underdog in the market, but the flat white was somewhat bitter and thin and lacked the richness that Coffee Collective achieves. If this location were in another part of town, especially a part of town which is a coffee dead zone, it would be worth a visit, but with Coffee Collective less than 100 yards away it is an easy choice to make.

Christiania – Run-down and over-grown nonsense – Christianshavn
In case you have done literally no research of any kind on Copenhagen, Christiania is a hippie commune that has been around since the 1970’s. They are “against” hard drugs, but then they “sell” a lot of weed on the one main street. For that reason, they “don’t want you taking pictures”. It all seems made up and kind of fake for the sake of all the tourists. The rest of the neighborhood is just run-down and boring. We could have easily passed on this one, but if you do go, I would hit it up during the day as it’s obviously pretty sketchy.

Stefano’s Pizzabar – Pizza – Nørrebro
We ordered a pizza to-go to enjoy with our beers at Mikkeller & Friends, just down the street. Stefanos was the only place (in the whole country!) where we encountered Danish people who didn’t seem to want to speak English to us. The guy at the counter seemed like I was wasting his time by asking him to take my order and in the end the pizza wasn’t even anything to write home about anyway. Skip it.

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CFB: Black Hills and Badlands of South Dakota

If you think this post is going to be about Mt. Rushmore, think again! Ok, yes, we went there, because it is basically a requirement in the Instagram era to put some Mt. Rushmore selfies on the internet, but ultimately this part of South Dakota is about much more. The beauty of the landscape is quintessetially America and many of those beautiful places have historical significance too. This is the kind of place to come and be outdoors as much as possible.

On that note, make sure you come dressed and prepared for the outdoors. Real hiking boots, moisture-wicking socks and undershirts, sunscreen, a jacket and a pack will all come in great handy, even on short day hikes since the weather can be fickle. Also make sure you pack plenty of water.

One more thing that is important to note, this is an early-to-bed, Sunday-is-a-day-of-rest kind of place. I don’t think we saw a single restaurant that was open for dinner past 8:00p, and very litle is open on Sundays, even in Rapid City. Grocery stores will be open, but very few restaurants, so either reserve well ahead or plan to make your own dinner (a great idea in my opinion if you have access to a grill!)

Don’t miss

Dakota BBQ LLC – Barbecue Restaurant – Custer
Really friendly people making great BBQ. Gotta get there early, especially if you want ribs, but even if you miss out on ribs you won’t be disappointed. The pulled pork is awesome; so moist but still distinctly porky. Get it naked or on a sandwich and don’t skip the baked beans—homemade of course—which are sweet and saucy and super delicious.

Black Hills Burger and Bun Co – Hamburger Restaurant – Custer
Really delicious burgers and fries. Patties are juicy and the buns are perfectly soft. Malted milkshakes are great too. All in all a great place for dinner. Minus one star for not being open for dinner on the weekends though. What’s up with that?

Red Shirt Table Overlook – Vista Point – Hermosa
A really crazy view of the Badlands within (relatively) easy striking distance from the Custer area. A great place for otherworldly photos, especially at sunset. Also a decent place to do a little stargazing if you have a blanket or a pickup truck bed ; ) On a clear night the stars are magical. Visiting at sundown and staying until the stars came out was possibly my favorite experience of the whole trip.

  • South Dakota Badlands
  • Waiting for the stars to come out

Canyon Lake Liquors – Liquor Store – Rapid City
Great place to buy good wine in what seems like an otherwise wine dead zone. Prices are high but where else in South Dakota are you going to find wine that doesn’t have a picture of a cartoon donkey on the front.

The Custer Beacon – Event Venue – Custer
A pretty cool spot in an otherwise not particularly cool little town. It feels like the sort of place that would be almost like a de facto cultural center—it definitely has a lot of potential. Lots of fun shows and even an annual air guitar competition (?!) Acoustics could be a bit better but the atmosphere and decent selection of craft beer is hard to deny.

Skogen Kitchen – American Restaurant – Custer
Amazing find in sleepy little Custer, SD! It’s small, so make reservations, but it’s worth the extra leg work. Highlights of our meal were the morel risotto daily special, the veal sweetbreads with aji amarilo, the free-range chicken with muhammara and the pork chop with green papaya salad. Plus they have by far the most sophisticated wine list maybe in the whole state. It’s a small list that skews mostly American but there are wines at every price point and definitely some good deals. As if that wasn’t enough it is one of the few places open on Sunday for dinner. They also have a killer brunch with amazing pancakes.

  • Veal sweatbreads and morel risotto
  • Scallops, pork chop, and good wine
  • Delicious brunch…
  • …with fried chicken and pancakes!

Cream – Ice Cream Shop – Hill City
This ice cream shops pulls their espresso from a LaMarzocco so you know they mean business when it comes to their coffee. In fact it is the only legit coffee shop we found outside of Rapid City. They make a well-made 8-oz (“small latte”) and also had French-pressed coffee brewed and ready to serve. Plus the homemade ice cream comes in a number of inventive flavors and is *real* good.

Lost Cabin Beer Co. – Brewery – Rapid City
Great beers (very well made and a large and diverse selection) and really friendly staff. It’s not huge inside but a nice place to hang out with friends and have a pint over tater tots from the food truck in the parking lot. I’d definitely be back for more smoked coffee stout and tater tots!

Pure Bean Coffeehouse – Coffee Shop – Rapid City
Strong coffee game for sure; in fact the best we found in all of South Dakota. Good single origin drip coffee and an excellent cortado (8 oz) pulled from a Mavam espresso machine. I would definitely come back for coffee and a cookie anytime I’m in Rapid City.

N.B. If you are in the market for coffee and aren’t sure about the fact that the bags have no indication of the coffee’s roast date, I am told that all the coffee is freshly roasted and none of the coffee bags on the shelf should be more than a couple days old.

Custer State Park Wildlife Loop Road – Wildlife Viewing – East Custer
This is a really beautiful drive through the park with lots of opportunities to see native wildlife like bison, pronghorn antelope, prairie dogs and even donkeys (!) The drive is beautiful and there is a good chance to see wildlife but the part that I would recommend not to miss is the hike on the Prairie Trail. There is a small parking lot and a bathroom at the Prairie Trail Trailhead on Wildlife Loop Rd. Hiking through the wilderness is a much better way to experience the beauty of this area than driving, and you might even happen upon some bison!

If you have time/are in the area

Black Elk Peak – Hiking – Sylvan Lake
The trail was snowy and muddy as all get out in late May (!) but it was a fun (if wet) slog to the top. The top was slightly underwhelming though; the views are spectacular but the top can be crowded. Also we had a really hard time finding the USGS high point marker. Overall it wasn’t bad just not the most exciting high-point experience of my life.

Baker’s Bakery & Café – Breakfast Restaurant – Custer
I would describe it as a fairly standard diner-type spot. The breakfast and pastries are homemade but lacked the artisanal touch I was really hoping for. Bryn thought the doughnuts reminded here of her childhood, I thought they reminded me of Dunkin’. There is one shining star of the breakfast menu though, the the western omelette with a side of green chile sauce that is the bomb.

Mt. Rushmore Brewing Company – Brewpub – Custer
Some of the beers are really good, but others still need some work. The oatmeal stout, the cranberry juniper (!) special ale and the scotch ale are all strong choices. The IPAs and porters left a lot to be desired. Similarly for the food, stick to traditional bar food: the chicken wings are super-duper and the bratwurst is solid but I would not order the pizza again. Overall it is a place to eat in Custer that may be open when other places are not open, but it is definitely not worth going out of your way for.

Don’t bother

Wind Cave National Park Visitor Center – Cave Tour – Hot Springs
Unless you manage to get on the Wild Cave tour (crawling required) or potentially the Candlelight tour (some off trail travel) I would definitely skip this overly touristy stop in Wind Cave National Park. The park itself is cool and there is lots of great-looking hiking as well as a herd of bison you can see from the road, but the cave tours are pretty lame. There is nothing natural about the Natural Entrance tour–everything has been widened and paved for ease of access and it feels too manicured and a bit like waiting in line for some sort of Indiana Jones-themed ride at Disney World. Plus almost no real information is given about the caves and their history and significance to the native peoples, which would have at least made the tour more interesting if it wasn’t going to be very exciting.

Knuckle Saloon – Gastropub – Sturgis
First of all, this is NOT a Gastropub. Tricked again by Google Maps, I guess. In reality, it is just your average dive bar with tons of tchotchkes and junk all over the place, which makes it feel a little too much like a Disney World version of a dive bar. The food is just regular bar food. Perhaps it is just not my type of place but I would skip it next time.

Mount Rushmore National Memorial – Memorial Park – Keystone
This may be blasphemy but just stick with me here. It’s Mt. Rushmore. You know it, you (probably) love it, but it’s just a bunch of heads carved into a rock. It is actually kind of cool up close, and $10 for one carload is somewhat reasonable, but you don’t realy *need* to do this to have a great time in South Dakota. If you do decide to come here there is no way I can see that you would need anymore than 20 minutes at the monument. In a way it’s kind of a victim of its own fame; it looks exactly like what you expepct it to look like. There is no mystery, no wonder, no real interest unfortunately. Snap those selfies and get on to the good stuff!

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CFB: Everything you need to know about Asheville, North Carolina

  • Appalachians: Mount Pisgah

Asheville is a vibrant city in North Carolina’s Blue Ridge Mountains known for its local breweries, outdoorsy lifestyle and art scene. There are over 25 different breweries and an amazing foodie scene. Unlike other Southern towns definitely has a more of hippy dippy rather than preppy vibe.

Within the past year, I have been lucky enough to head to Asheville, North Carolina for two very happy occasions. First, Matt’s best friend got married in the mountains right outside of Asheville (as pictured above) , and then most recently, my future sister-in-law’s bachelorette party. I had two completely different experiences there, but both were a blast.

How do you get there? – They do have direct flights into Asheville, but they can be expensive! We flew into Charlotte and then took a 2 hour drive to Asheville. Nothing like a good roadtrip 🙂 Along the way if you get hungry make sure you add Bridges BBQ as a pitstop for food. Their Carolina pulled pork can’t be beat!

  • Carolina BBQ!

Must Do:

Flora & Forage – Coffee & Flower Shop – West Asheville – This place is everything I look for in a coffee shop and shopping experience. It is part coffee shop/part flower shop and was just adorable. They have so many cozy nooks that I could envision myself enjoying a cup of coffee here while getting work done or a glass of wine in the afternoon. They have adorable planters for sale and it was an Instagramer’s paradise.

City Bakery- Breakfast – Asheville – Delicious breakfast sandwiches–including the fresh foccacia with sausage, apple butter, spinach and eggs! I also had the mushroom and swiss quiche which had a cornmeal crisp on the bottom rather than a thick pie shell. It was accompanied by a side salad, which I loved since it didn’t feel too heavy and was a good way to start a long day of stuffing ourselves. They had a lavender latte that had the perfect floral element to it.

  • Sausage & cheese breakfast sammie
  • Mushroom & swiss quiche


Sunny Point Cafe -“Blunch” – West Asheville – They’re big on the “Blunch” front in Asheville. Lest you think they are being different for difference’s sake, there is a difference between “brunch” and “blunch”: “blunch” is much heavier on the lunch front whereas “brunch” implies there will be more breakfast-type items. (Seriously.)

Either way, you will love this super busy local spot in West Asheville, starting with the best bacon you’ve ever had! It was thick and super crunchy (aka Hartzell-style). I had the pimento, tomato, bacon omelet with foccacia. Pimento cheese is the perfect omelet cheese since it melts all over everything! I got the salad with a hemp dressing to go along with it. Mom got the pecan encrusted fried green tomatoes with goat cheese and a chipotle remoulade. They were perfectly fried, and didn’t feel too heavy.
Grab a cup of joe while you wait outside! No reservations, it might take a little while, but take a seat on a bench under the big trees and dog watch! Try to get David Jones as a server, he’s got a great energy! If it’s monkey bread day definitely grab one for the table.

  • Fried Green Tomatoes
  • The Southern omelet

Rhubarb – Dinner – Asheville – This farm to table restaurant is a tough one to get into, so make sure you make reservations. We ordered a bunch of small plates that we shared. The highlights included their cassoulet with foraged mushrooms, pesto, and beans which was superb. The other stand outs included the Mongolian barbecued lamb ribs with collard green kimchi and the goat cheese burruta with rhubarb jam and crunchy onions

  • Buratta – So yummy!

The Rhu – Breakfast – Asheville – Around the corner from Rhubarb is their little sister restaurant “The Rhu.”The Rhu also features farm fresh ingredients just like Rhubarb, but is done in a more casual atmosphere. They have good coffee and freshly baked pastries if you want to grab and go quickly. They also offer breakfast toasts, homemade granola and breakfast sandwiches.

When I was there the first time around, I actually got a breakfast salad, which seems to be a big thing in Asheville. Mine included a frisee salad, a soft boiled egg, bacon, and other roasted veggies. They also had a bunch of lunch options and you can even order picnic baskets to go here.


New Belgium Brewing Company – Brewery – Home of Fat Tire beer, this place is no stranger to the craft beer scene. It actually began over 30 years ago in Denver and made its way over the the east coast in 2016. New Belgium Brewing has a huge beautiful facility right on the river which was perfect way to unwind after the week and spend a Spring afternoon. They have over 25 taps on location and were launching special releases every few hours while we were there, luring you to stick around longer to try out the newest creative draught.

They had a huge lawn spread out with picnic tables, a couple of food trucks and friends and their dogs just hanging out enjoying some good beer and sun. We didn’t take one, but they offer tours as well. If they happen to have the Passion Fruit Kolsh on tap do it! It was so refreshing.

Burial – Brewery – Asheville – Burial has a great mix of different inventive beers. Fabulous outdoor space with lots of different seating areas. Picnic tables with big umbrellas and a large stage where bands play and they have beer brewing talks make for a great place to hang out during happy hour and on the weekends. I got a flight of four beers that included a pineapple beer (that even my mother found palatable) and a wildflower saison that was super unique.

Battery Park Book Exchange and Champagne Bar – Bar & Store – Asheville– We stumbled on this little gem late Saturday afternoon before heading to dinner. We were all tired from a day of shopping and over indulging all day and were in the mood for a relaxing environment where we could grab a drink and a seat for six without struggling. All of a sudden, we turned the corner and stumbled upon this place. They have a beautiful assortment of used books that focus on North Carolina, the South and the Civil War. The place is super cozy and had so many nooks that you could sit in on a date or with friends. It was gorgeous out, so we opted to sit outside while a live jazz band played in the background. They have over 80 options of beverages to choose from that from what I’ve heard rotate frequently.

The Biltmore Estate – Museum & Wine Tasting – Asheville – Absolutely stunning estate. Those Vanderbilts really knew what a vacation home should look like… wow. I went to the Vanderbilts’ other house in Newport, Rhode Island and it’s hard to believe that they only vacationed in these estates for a few weeks the entire year. The Biltmore estate was very well organized and their headset tours made it a much more educational experience. We visited at the end of March and even though the gardens weren’t in full bloom yet, they were starting to look stunning.

If you drive further down the road on the estate you will drive past their farm including new little baby sheep. We had a nice lunch sitting outside next to their winery. They had a wine tasting that featured 22 different wines that was included in the price of admission to the estate. Make sure to save a little time to check out their cute boutique near the winery.

We thought that it was a little crazy that all of the literature we read talked about spending the entire day at the estate. However, we did just that! We arrived around 9:30am and didn’t leave until 5:30pm. Sure beats a day at the office.

If you have time/If you’re in the neighborhood:

White Labs Kitchen & Tap – Dinner – Asheville – This place was a bit out of the way… the location almost felt like we were going to a doctor’s office in a neighborhood instead of a hip brewery. But once we were inside we had a great experience. We had heard great things about their kimchi fries and man oh man they were delicious. The Lactobacillus-brined fries were perfectly crispy with acidic kimchi and crispy brisket on top. They had an awesome spicy mayo on top too.

We also shared the duck pizza and a Brussels spout pizza. We had a some interesting wheat wines made with Australian and California strands of yeast. They had a great outdoor space out front as well as upstairs. They apparently also offer a lot of classes there as well which I would definitely try to check out next time I’m in Asheville.

Chestnut – Dinner – Asheville – We stayed at the Marriott Aloft directly across the street from the restaurant Chestnut which made for a great commute home. The food here was delicious. I had the shrimp and grits which were peppery and delicious. They did a great job of having different sized options on the menu. For instance, you could get a filet mignon with mashed potatoes and green beans for only $16. All of their food was delicious, but we were coming off of all day eating spree, so to be honest, I just wasn’t as hungry as I wanted to be while dining here.

Hole – Doughnuts – West Asheville – These yeast doughnuts are made to order and get covered in delicious toppings like vanilla glaze, orange cardamom, sesame seeds, and cinnamon sugar. The doughnuts are super fresh and melt in your mouth. The staff is really friendly and nice to be around and they have both indoor and outdoor seating. It’s a little off the beat and path, but if you are in West Asheville it’s worth making your way over to grab a doughnut or two.

Twin Leaf – Brewery – Asheville – Thursday night is karaoke night… it was fun at first, but then, the same people kept singing over and over again. I tried two of their more unique beers, the “Pink Peppercorn Gose” which was delicious and very peppery and their “Like the Moon”- plum and blue basil sour farmhouse ale which tasted just like it sounds. I would give this place another shot, but on another night.

Oyster House Brewing Co – Brewery – West Asheville-Directly across the street from Sunny Point Cafe known for their “Moonstone Stout” made with oyster shells to give it added brine. I thought that these were good, but to be honest, I’m not much of a stout person, so I might not be the best judge.

Wicked Weed’s Funkatorium – Brewery – Asheville – Wicked Weed is a pretty famous brewery in Asheville. It’s so popular that they actually have a second location in Asheville called the Funkatorium… it’s focus is really on their funkier beers – like sours. This place would be awesome to meet a large group of friends here on a Saturday afternoon. It has a lot of indoor and outdoor space to order food, brews and enjoy some good company.

  • Like sucking on a lemon 😉
  • Sour Power!

Take a hike….

If you decide you want to get out into nature…. head to the Pisgah National Forest, where you can hike and spend time in the fresh air. Matt’s best friend got married at the Pisgah Inn, overlooking the mountains and it was just stunning. It’s only a 1/2 hour drive from Asheville, so getting there gives you the perfect mix of city/nature life.

  • What a view!
  • Getting my hike on!
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CFB Paris: Everything you need to know

The worst part about Paris is the flight. Never fly Air France economy class. Never fly into or out of Orly (though Charles De Gaulle is only marginally better). In fact, if possible, just take the train from somewhere else in Europe. You will enjoy your journee so much more. The good news is, though, once you manage to escape the most uncomfortable flight in history, it will definitely be all uphill from there.

Some things to note about Paris, especially regarding eating and drinking, that always seem strange to me:

Restaurants in Paris operate around their lives, not yours. Lunch hours are a tight window from 12:00p to 2:30p and are held very strictly–do not expect to show up at 2:35p and be seated for lunch. Similarly, many of the restaurants you want to eat at will be closed on the days you want to eat at them (i.e. the weekends). There are of course some good restaurants in Paris which have deigned to be open on Saturday and/or Sunday, but be sure to make reservations well ahead of time so you don’t miss out.

Paris has great natural wine. In Paris, “natural wine” just means “good wine that happened to be made in a sustainable and earth-friendly way”, as opposed to “natural wine” in America, which just seems to mean “wine that smells like animal waste and tastes like hot garbage”. Find a wine bar in Paris and it’s a good bet it will be a “natural wine” bar, but that is actually a good thing in this case.

This is not directly related to coffee, food or booze, but it can sometimes be tough to get around Paris (especially if you are from New York) because Google Maps makes all distances in Paris look more walkable than they really are. On top of that, you–being well acquainted with the worst transit authority in history, the MTA–probably have an inherent distrust of taking the subway to go on a trip that covers what seems like short distance and/or requires one or more transfers. Never fear; the Paris Metro is very safe and efficient and trains run almost one after another so that you would rarely wait more than three or four minutes for the next one. Plus rides are cheap–1.50 EUR per ride if you buy 10 tickets at a time. Hence, taking the subway one or two stops is probably actually the most efficient way to get from point A to point B.

Parisian restaurants always seem to want to get your food order first, and then take your drink order. I suppose this actually makes more sense than the way things are done in America because you will probably want to pair your wine (or beer or cocktail) with your food, rather than the other way around, but it always throws me off. Especially since I am always concerned the food will come before the booze (which does happen on occasion and drives me nuts). It is quite possible however that I am the only weird that really cares about this and it won’t matter to you either way.

I think everyone already knows this about Paris (and France, and Europe in general), but it gets me every time: the servers at most restaurants feel almost no incentive to sell you anything. Beyond the initial order of food and drink they will not look at your empty wine glass and ask if you want more wine. In fact they will probably not ask you if you want anything else at all. If you do happen to want something else (say, more water, or wine, or to pay the bill) you will need to flag them down and ask for it. This is perhaps the thing that I have the hardest time with because I feel rude asking someone to basically do their job. It is a cultural difference that I will never understand but as they say, c’est la vie.

One more thing I would be remiss not to mention is how much we enjoyed our Airbnb Experiences in Paris. We took a “Magic French Liquors” mixology class with
François and a “Learn to Bake French Croissants” class with Flo and Olivier. Airbnb makes it easy to sign up for these offbeat and interesting experiences and we really enjoyed both of our experiences. I would highly recommend them to anyone else looking for something fun to do in between all the eating and drinking ; )

Ok, that should be enough to get you started. Now on with the show:

Don’t miss

La Maison du Savon de Marseille – Beauty Supplies – 4th Arrondissement
It may seem weird for a beauty supply store to be the very first place listed in the blog, but this might be Bryn’s favorite spot in Paris. We measure the time between trips to Paris in bars of this store’s wonderful soap. When we start to run low (only two or three bars left), then it is time to start looking for flights to Paris. There are so many wonderful scents to choose from and each one makes taking a shower like a taking a short, wet little trip back to Paris. There is a second location near the Arc de Triomphe.

  • Soap heaven
  • La Maison du Savon de Marseille

Cafe Mericourt – Cafe – 11th Arrondissement
The rare coffee shop that serves great food and great coffee instead of just one or the other. Everyone is very friendly and the flat white is one of the best I’ve had in Paris. Food wise, the shakshuka is off the hook. Like seriously it’s the standard to which I compare all other shakshukas. The only problem is Cafe Mericourt is tiny, so you should definitely plan to be there on the early side because it will fill up fast. We’ll definitely be back every time we’re in Paris.

  • Waiting for tables outside Cafe Mericourt
  • What everyone is waiting for: shakshuka!

Golden Promise – Bar – 2nd Arrondissement
The bar called Golden Promise is actually a fine whiskey bar downstairs from a Japanese restaurant, but the real attraction here is the “other room” (which doesn’t have a real name as far as I can tell–you can just tell the bartender you’re looking for the other room) where basically every whiskey in existence (I assume based on the length of the list) is available by the ounce. Some (most) are very rare and therefore very expensive, but there are definitely gems in the 15€-30€ range worth seeking out, like Johnnie Walker Black Label from the sixties or a really interesting Berry Bros and Rudd Peated Springbank whiskey from 1992. It won’t be cheap but it will be an experience you won’t forget if you are truly a whiskey lover.

Fragments – Cafe – 3rd Arrondissement
A small but cosy cafe near the Chemin Vert metro stop. Delicious breakfasts–avo toast with perfectly poached eggs, homemade quick breads with inventive flavors like sweet potato or banana tahini–and coffee. The espresso is balanced and sweet and they serve raw milk by default in the cappuccino which gives the drink a little added sweetness and roundness (and definitely not something you’ll see in the US). Perfect English is spoken in case you are not up on your French cafe vocabulary. The only drawback is it’s on the expensive side, but definitely worth at least one breakfast as a vacation treat.

  • Avo toast and sweet potato bread
  • Outside Fragments

Danico – Bar – 10th Arrondissement
A classy bar at the back of the Darocco Italian restaurant. Tell the host you are there for Danico and you can walk back through the restaurant to the bar. The cocktails are really creative–especially with their use of savory and non-alcoholic ingredients–but also delicious (which is not always a given when mixologists get a little too creative). The staff are friendly and speak good English and it’s a great place to have a few drinks after dinner (or while waiting for a table at Darocco, which we have not actually tried).

Au Quai Caviste Vin Nature – Wine Shop – 10th Arrondissement
Fantastic little natural wine shop run by a wonderful man named Alain. The deal–to start–is you get one glass per person and a plate of sausage to share. You pick the color of your wine, Alain picks the rest ; ) Don’t worry though, Alain has great taste. I chose red and he brought me a superb pinot noir from Alsace. I never order the same glass twice but I was ready to order that wine again. Luckily he would not let me (or maybe he just didn’t understand me–his English was passable but definitely not his strongest language) and he let me taste 3 other red wines he had open before letting me choose a Rhone-valley syrah for my next glass. If you see a bottle in the shop and want to drink it there, corkage is a very fair 7€ per bottle. Definitely a great place to start your night in the 10th.

  • Natural wine and sausage at Au Quai Caviste
  • Roasted squash at Freddy’s

Feddy’s – Wine Bar/Restaurant – 6th Arrondissement
Great spot for a slightly later lunch than usual–the kitchen is open until 3:00p (as opposed to the usual 2:30p) and they have a nice mid-day snacks menu in case you can’t make it in time for actual lunch. Small plates are excellent–delicious, creative and beautiful–and pair well with a great selection of wines by the glass and bottle. Go for lunch, afternoon wines or dinner. Just go!

Ambassade de Bourgogne – Wine Shop – 6th Arrondissement
A small wine shop on the right bank with a few tables and a bar to try wines by the glass. As the name implies, the list leans very heavily (if not entirely?) towards Burgundy. Bryn had a very nice Nuits-St-Georges from 2015 and I found a wine from 1999 so there is definitely a good range of choices. In case you can’t decide on just one glass they have a few flights you can try too. Also, you can drink any bottle in the store for a 15€ corkage fee. It’s a bit on the expensive side, especially compared to some of the other wine bars in Paris like Au Quai Caviste (above) and La Cave de Belleville (below) but it is Burgundy after all and in Burgundy you tend to get what you pay for.

  • Ambassade de Bourgogne
  • Steak and Bordeaux at hugo&co

hugo&co – Restaurant – 5th Arrondissement
Here is an example of a great restaurant that is not open on Saturday or Sunday, so make sure you plan on going during the week and make sure you have reservations. It’s small inside but somehow still comfy. The decor and vibe are real cool and the food is super delicious. A small but good selection of cocktails and wines by the glass and bottle pairs well with the menu. If you see the steak on the menu, get it. Served on a bed of smoked hay, it comes with traditional sides (ours were mashed potatoes and French lentils) and the best pan sauce you’ve ever tasted. You definitely won’t regret it.

If you have time/are in the arrondissement

O Chateau – Wine Bar/Restaurant – 1st Arrondissement
They have a big bar with lots of seats but on a Friday evening around 6:00p it filled up pretty quick. 50 wines by the glass basically guarantees you’ll find something you like. We drank a glass of 2015 Volnay, 2000 Mersault and 1995 Haut-Medoc when we were there so there are definitely some good choices. They also have a killer truffle ham and cheese board which sounds kind of weird but was actually amazing, especially with the red and white Burgundy. The other meat and cheese boards looked amazing as well, even though we didn’t get to try them. The only thing keeping it from “Don’t Miss” status is the price; it’s not cheap. Still, I would say it can be a very good call for a glass of wine or two before dinner.

  • Truffle ham and cheese board at O Chateau
  • “Surf’s up” at Blackburn Coffee

Blackburn Coffee – Cafe – 10th Arrondissement
Kind of a sketchy neighborhood, so it’s not too clear why you would “be in the neighborhood” for breakfast, but in case you are be sure to stop in. Solid flat white and perfectly melty, cheesy scrambled eggs. English was pretty hit or miss, so bring your phrasebook : )

Il Brigante – Pizza – 18th Arrondissement
Last time Bryn and I were in Paris we met a young guy at a bar who was from Paris but loved pizza so much he once went all the way to New Haven (!) to try some pizza place that was supposed to be really good. That guy told us this place was the best pizza in Paris. I don’t think we’ve ever eaten pizza anywhere else in Paris so it’s tough to say for sure, but it is a really solid thin crust pizza. And Il Brigante is a good (if tiny) choice for lunch before or after Montmartre/Sacre Couer. English is a bit hit-or-miss but if you don’t speak French you can try Italian.

Cassiopee Cafe – Coffee Shop – 18th Arrondissement
An oasis of good coffee in an out-of-the-way part of town. The coffee is solid if not spectacular, but it is freshly roasted in house (right in the back patio of the shop!) a couple times a week and there is obviously a lot of love put into the coffee and the shop.

  • Roasting a la minute at Cassiopee Cafe
  • Le Syndicat

Le Syndicat – Bar – 10th Arrondissment
A speakeasy-style bar with a unique style that is basically hidden in plain sight on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis and only uses French ingredients to make their drinks. Service is friendly, English is well-spoken and while all of the drinks are definitely creative, only most of the drinks are delicious. On the whole though it is a cool experience and a nice place to have some creative drinks in a funky space.

Au Petit Tonneau – Bistro – 7th Arrondissement
Friendly, cozy ambiance with simple but beautifully prepared dishes. Definitely go for the wild mushroom saute of the day. Also, it wouldn’t be France without at least one plate of escargots; the snails are particularly good here. English (and Spanish as it turns out) is spoken well so no need to worry about understanding the menu. A fine if not particularly exciting lunch option located in between the Eiffel Tower and Musee d’Orsay.

La Cave de Belleville – Wine Bar – 19th Arrondissement
Another cool wine bar/wine shop in the same mold as Au Quai Caviste and Ambassade de Bourgogne (both above). Great little selection of natural wines by the glass and a huge selection of wines by the bottle (and craft beer!) to go with some killer cheese and meat boards. It’s also a pretty big space so there should be room for you and a few friends. The only challenge for us was the language barrier; the only guy who spoke English kept getting pulled in a bunch of different directions and it was tough to get his attention for another glass of wine. Overall though a good place to start the evening with some friends, a nice bottle and some delicious charcuterie.

  • Charcuterie at La Cave de Belleville
  • Game meats and old Beaujolais at Le Clown Bar

Le Clown Bar – Restaurant – 11th Arrondissement
I had high hopes for Clown Bar even though the chef that made it famous had moved on. To be honest, the food was not as exciting as I had expected. It was still very good but ultimately some dishes felt like they were trying too hard (like the fish fried in a black (squid ink?) batter. It was good because deep fried fish is delicious, but I really couldn’t understand why it was just some black pieces of fried fish on a plate. Bryn’s pigeon was definitely the star of the show–a balanced, composed, interesting dish that was perfectly cooked. Plus they have a pretty good selection of natural wines by the bottle so your confusion over some of the food will be easily forgotten ; ) I would go back for the wine and some of that pigeon, but I can’t say I would go out of my way to make it back, especially if I am on a short stay in Paris.

Don’t bother

La Bourse et La Vie – Bistro – 2nd Arrondissement
Don’t get me wrong here, this was a very solid–though not mind-blowing–central option. The food is very good and very classic French bistro food. There is also a small but good selection of wines by the glass, but it is a very expensive meal–especially for lunch, which is when we went. You will definitely have a good meal if you choose to go but personally I would not go back with my own money; I just don’t think it is worth the price.

Saturne – Restaurant – 2nd Arrondissement
Maybe we were there on an off night. (I know Valentine’s dinner is a disaster in the states but is it also a thing where restaurants mail it in in Europe too?) Either way, it just felt like the kitchen was trying too hard. Some of the food was good, but other bits were head-scratching and some–like our amuse bouche of oyster and green pea foam–were downright despicable. Also the wine pairings were very hit-and-miss, with no real stars to speak of. I think for the money I would have expected to have a more delicious, well-curated and better-executed experience; I can’t really recommend it based on our experience.

Ellsworth – Restaurant – 1st Arrondissement
I have to admit I’m a bit torn about Ellsworth. On the one hand, it’s small (“cramped” doesn’t really do it justice) and full of tourists. The vaunted fried chicken was moist but ultimately nothing to write home about, and the other dishes we tried were also fine but not ground-breaking. The service was also very disjointed (though maybe they were just having a bad night since they seemed to be aware of the fact that the service was not great).

On the other hand, they do have a very good–if small–selection of natural wines by the glass and by the bottle, so maybe sitting at the bar for a drink and a snack would be the move here. I would not go back for the whole dinner thing though.

Cafe Spoune – Cafe – 11th Arrondissement
I only tried the coffee, so maybe this is a bit harsh, but the coffee was only ok. Double-shot of espresso with milk (like basically a 6-oz) was quite bitter (though it did get the job done). I might come back to try the filter coffee and some for the food items but for sure there is a better flat white in the area (see especially Fragments and Cafe Mericourt, above).

Marché aux Oiseaux – Market – 4th Arrondissement
Umm, I’m really not sure what this is all about, but it’s pretty weird. I don’t know why anyone would want to buy a bird from a random outdoor market on a Sunday morning on Ile de la Cite but somehow this place is still going strong. Bryn insisted we check it out for nostalgia’s sake; I insist you do not waste your time.

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Out of Africa… Cape Town & Safari Tour

For as long as I can remember one of my main items on my bucket list was heading to Africa and going on a Safari. So, when my mom declared that she wanted to take a break from vacationing in Europe and wanted to go on a safari, I knew we were in for an adventure.

We knew that in order to make my parents comfortable with a trip so outside of their comfort zone, and if we’re honest, a Safari was outside of ours as well,  we would need to join a tour group (yup, I said it). If you know Matt at all, you know that “tour group” is a dirty word to him. There is nothing he hates more than being herded around with a large group of people and being told what to do and where to do it. But this Gate 1 eight day tour for less than $2500 including airfare was just too good for even us to pass up.  As a compromise, we went a few days early, so that Matthew could do a little of his own thing before being herded into a group setting.

We went to South Africa in late June of 2017 – Sorry, this post is a little delayed, but I’ve been getting requests for what we did in Cape Town.  So…. here we go!

Don’t miss…

Test Kitchen –Cape Town – Dinner – Test Kitchen is in the Woodstock neighborhood of Cape Town in the Old Biscuit Mill, it is basically Williamsburg, Brooklyn 15 years ago before it became full of hipsters. This is the most amazing restaurant experience that I have ever had in my life.  We had 8:30pm dinner reservations and they only allow you into the restaurant at your exact reservation time. When we entered we were escorted over to a dark room with low bar seats. There you were treated to two complimentary cocktails and ticket around the world on a culinary adventure.

We were given a map of the world ……ceviche from Peru, fois gras “candy” with gold on it from Scotland, and pork cracklings in a cheddar beer froth that I will never forget to name a few.


Then, when we were done with our cocktails, we rang a bell and went through a door into the “light” room.  There we were greeted with a 10 course tasting menu with wine pairings.

Matt and I shared two different wine pairings the Gourmand and the Iconic – in order to maximize our wines that we would try.  My dad was super excited because they curated a beer pairing for him, which was just a dream. We didn’t order it, but I thought that it was really cool that they had a tea pairing menu as well for people that don’t drink. The pairings they did with these drinks and the food were exactly what Somms around the world dream to create.  They were the perfect pairings of fat and acidity, smoke and mirrors (literally) and above all else balance. It did not disappoint. There is a reason that this place is one of the 50 best restaurants in the world.

At the end of the night a big, bronze, brandy cart rolled over to our table.  At that very moment the song from Netflix Chef’s Table was playing in the background. It was one of those unforgettable moments, well at least for my mom and me.  Matt greedily accepted the brandy, hearing the song playing and my dad was more interested in what beer the people that work in the kitchen drink than accepting a glass of complimentary brandy.  We closed the restaurant down that night, talking our waiter Dowd’s ear off and loving every moment of this night we continue to talk about over a year later.

Chef’s Warehouse – Cape Town – Lunch – We enjoyed an 8 course tasting lunch at the Chef’s Warehouse.  The exciting thing about this place is that the food changes everyday! This is a cozy little restaurant in the heart of Cape Town.  They have a few outdoor tables and on a gorgeous late July day, it was the perfect setting for our lunch. They have a cute kitchen store with books inside. They don’t take reservations at the Chef’s Warehouse, but they do have a little, and I mean little  (hope you’re not tall, because these ceilings are low) bar next door called, “No Reservations.” No Reservations is the perfect place to get a wine and relax while you wait for your table to become available at Chef’s Warehouse.

Chef’s Warehouse – 8 course tasting lunch….

Boulders beach – Simon’s Town –Animal Watching – This was seriously one of the highlights of the trip and one of the coolest thing that I have seen in life.   It is about an hour drive from downtown Cape Town to Boulder beach (we took an uber and the driver stayed to bring us back). Upon arriving, you pay a small fee to the national parks department to enter and then walk down a large boardwalk surrounded by sand and brush.  Immediately, we started to see little penguin heads popping out from the sand only a few feet away from us. As we continued to walk down the path the beach stretched out with hundreds of tiny, teetering African Penguins. We could have watched these little guys splash and bob in the water for hours.

Boulders Beach

District Six Museum- Cape Town – Museum – My parents and I went on a tour of the districts and made a stop at the District Six museum. Housed in an old Methodist church, this museum is full of recreated homes, pictures, artifacts and real life stories of what happened during the apartheid of the 1960’s and 1970’s and the impact that it left. I really wished that I had done more reading and research on South Africa prior to taking this trip.

aMadoda Braai and Restaurant – Cape Town – Dinner – For a local experience, go to a braai (a local barbecue spot). aMadoda has since closed, but you can find similar restaurants (to use the term loosely) all around Cape Town. This is a no frills eating experience where you eat with your hands (sorry Dad) and there were no vegetables in sight (sorry Mom). We went on a Friday night and the music was pumping from a DJ booth and locals dancing, singing and just having a good time. We had our meat cooked by the braai professionals, but the locals seemed to enjoy cooking their own meat on big open grills. We sat at a large table and made some new friends from Zimbabwe while we drank local beers and ate steaks and sausages.

Origin – Cape Town – Coffee & Breakfast – We are constantly on the hunt for a breakfast spot that can not only get the coffee right, but also has a well rounded breakfast. This place nailed it! Any place where you have shakshuka and an avacado smash on the menu and also have quality single origin coffee & espresso is a win in our book.

Mulderbosch – Stellenbosch – Winery – One of Matt’s friends is in the South African wine business, and we were lucky enough to spend our morning in Stellenbosch, with the very talented winemaker of Mulderbosch, Adam Mason.  I always have a bottle of their rose on standby for drinking on our terrace all summer long.  It’s the best!  But Adam also shared with us some other projects that he is working on like their Raised by Wolves label and lucky for us they sell it at our wine shop around the corner from our apartment, Winfield Flynn. Woohoo! They have a gorgeous shaded patio overlooking the vineyards and amazing gourmet pizzas to munch on at lunchtime.  Make sure to book ahead.  

Kleinood Wineries – Stellenbosch – Winery – This vineyard is open by appointment only, but it is definitely worth stopping by this absolutely breathtaking estate. Their wine label is called Tamboerskloof and the estate is filled with outdoor art and gardens as well as the obvious, vineyards.  They make some great wines and olive oils here and was well worth the visit. 

Glenelly Estates – Stellenbosch – Winery – This had the most contemporary tasting room of any of the vineyards we visited in South Africa.  I remember walking up a large flight of stairs to a modern glass filled room overlooking the vineyards and it was just stunning.  We sat out on their extensive patio taking in the sunset and their delicious wine tasting.  The good news is that they also sell Glenelly Estates wines around the in New York at Winfield Flynn.

Mabula Game Lodge – Limpopo Province – Lodging & Animal Watching – We had to fly to Johannesburg in order to make our way to the game lodge (2 and a half hour drive from Jo-berg).

Upon arriving for our Safari, we were hoping to see some giraffes, zebras, and maybe a rhino or two.   We went into it having low expectations on the big game front and thought we would be lucky to see one of the infamous “Big Five” that everyone talks so much about.  Just as a refresher, because I knew I needed one… the big five includes: lions, leopards, buffalo, African elephants, and rhinoceros. We were lucky enough to see four out of the five up close and personal.  The leopard was the only one of the big five that hid from us. Along with those, we saw giraffes, warthogs, and zebras and some of the most beautiful birds that I have ever seen in my life. These birds were just gorgeous and were as colorful as a rainbow.  Seeing them made me see understand the draw of bird watching.

It was mind blowing how close we were able to get to all of these wild animals and the most surprising was how close we got to the lions.  They were so strong, muscular, and fierce and only yards away from where we were sitting.

We went on two early morning game drives with stops for coffee, snacks and snuggling under the blankets before dawn.  In the afternoon, we would head out again and have wine/beer and snacks. Every time we went out it was a new adventure.  

Every time we went out it was a new adventure the sunrises and sunsets were like nothing we had ever seen before. The red-est reds, most orange oranges and deepest purples you have ever seen in a sunset before.

Horseback Riding – Mabula Lodge – Animal Watching – On our free morning at the lodge the four of us went on a tour of the safari on horseback.  We all had a little bit of nervous energy about riding in the wild, mainly because it had been years since we had all ridden.  Well, as they say, you just got to get back on the horse. They seemed to pair our horses with our personalities. In true from, Matt got the wild one, my dad got the one that is named after a beer, my mom had a horse name Carlos who didn’t want to listen to anything she said and mine was nervous. They hit the nail on the head.

Being on a horseback safari gives a completely different vantage point of the amazing landscape around us.  We were able to get a few feet away from the giraffes, warthogs, and even the rhinos (this was a little to close for comfort for me).  I will never forget the moment when the rhinos started to charge at my mom’s lazy horse Carlos and she started to give him a speech about how even though everyone thinks he’s lazy, she believed in him, oy!

BAD
Ready to charge….

If you have time/ are in the neighborhood….

Robben Island – Cape Town – Sightseeing – Heading to Robben Island was a highlight for many of our friends who have previously visited South Africa. However, most of them came to South Africa during their summer, when the water is flat and the sun is out. We however, took the ferry over to this island in huge 15 feet swells (they hadn’t been running the boat the two days before) and honestly they probably shouldn’t have been that day either. The boat was rocking so hard that people were fainting and getting sick all over the boat. I also don’t think it helped that we didn’t have the most engaging tour guides. I would say if you have time, check it out…. it’s an important part of history… however, I would definitely check the weather report prior to boarding.

Tribe Coffee – Woodstock – Coffee & Breakfast – In a house that is set back off the road in the trendy Woodstock neighborhood it has a rustic surfer vibe going on inside. They make a mean flat white here and have delicious pastries and breads.

Fairview Vineyards – Suider-Paarl – Winery –This vineyard features the wine label, “Goats Do Roam” a cheeky play on words.  We stopped at this vineyard on our tour with my parents and were greeted by a super friendly staff.  There we enjoyed tasting 6 different wines and cheese pairings (with both goat and cow cheese).  Next time I would stop at this vineyard after lunch, we went right after breakfast and it was a little early to have that much wine and cheese.  I know, I know…it’s five o’clock somewhere. 

Spier Wine Farm – Stellenbosch – Winery – This winery had beautiful grounds and a farm house modern feel inside of the large tasting room.  It almost looked like it was one of Joanna Gaines creations from the show, “Fixer Upper.” It was adorable, and it also had a great gift shop too.  This was our last stop on our organized vineyard tour and it ended on a high note with 6 wines paired perfectly with 3 different gourmet chocolates.  Our offerings included some of the  following: the Signature Pinotage paired with a dark malted cherry chocolate.   A vintage Riesling paired with a white cardamom and passion fruit chocolate and a Method Cap Classique paired with a white peppered plum chocolate.

Boschendal – Franschhoek – Winery – Beautiful dutch architecture was everywhere in this stunning vineyard. We took a very informative tour of the entire vineyard before sitting outside and having our wine tasting.   This vineyard was closely surrounded by mountains and absolutely lovely company.  We sat at a large table outside in the garden with a French couple who made the mistake of telling my dad he looks like a super famous French actor, Fabrice Luchini (big mistake, my dad still hasn’t stopped talking about this).  


The V & A Waterfront – Cape Town – Sightseeing – This place is a bit touristy, but if you have a little time I would venture down there for a little bit.  I am always a sucker for a beautiful waterfront. It’s a great spot to take a few pictures. The VA waterfront, is like NYC’s South Street Seaport.  It has a lot of different local boutiques and a local food hall including local jerky’s (like kudu, similar to antelope and ostrich) and African stews.

Lion’s Head – Cape Town – Hiking – Lion’s Head stands proud 2000 ft high above the coast in between Table Mountain and Signal Hill.  This is an hour-and-a-half to two-hour upward spiral to the top of the mountain. The hike was a bit longer for me since Matt neglected to tell me that the last quarter mile of the hike is super strenuous, steep, and you have to use a chain ladder (yes, chain ladder) to get to the top.  We made it up in about 2 hours and then probably another 1 and a half hours to get back down again. The views were all worth it in the end, but I won’t pretend there wasn’t any whimpering and evil eyes thrown when I saw that chain ladder hovering over the ocean and the city dangling below me.

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View from the top of Lion’s Head

Don’t Bother…

Be aware of yourself & your surroundings – We had a little bit of a scare, when my dad’s debit card got stolen and Matt chased after the people onto the hood of the getaway car. I’m not telling you this to scare you. I’m just telling you so that you are aware. It honestly could have happened anywhere. It was just one of those moments where you let your guard down and your instincts kick in. It definitely wouldn’t keep us from going back to South Africa again.

To Sum It All Up….

South Africa is a dream vacation. True paradise for lovers of food, wine, and hiking. If you love animals and unbelievable landscapes this place is for you.

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Our favorite restaurant in the world

Everyone who knows us and knows we live in New York will eventually ask us the same question: what is your favorite restaurant in the city? The problem with that question is that our favorite restaurant in the city is not a super-famous restaurant…and we would like to keep it that way!

So we’re not going to tell you the name of our favorite restaurant ever because I want to continue being able to find 8:00p reservations for Friday night when checking Opentable on Wednesday. But because we love this place so much and we do want you to go there if you really care, we are going to give you some hints so the intrepid among you will be able to figure it out.

It’s not a famous restaurant but it is possible you have already been there if you live in or have visited us in NYC. Many of you who know us pretty well have probably already met us in the East Village for Modern Hawaiian food and a fantastic wine list at a small space with a black awning in between a bakery and an Irish pub. Just like in this post, the name is not prominently displayed anywhere–you just have to know something amazing is inside.

Inside is a small space divided across two rooms. A small bar is somehow squeezed in the middle and the specials are written on a surfboard-shaped chalkboard on the back wall. Looking around the restaurant before you’re probably wondering what the heck “Modern Hawaiian” food is and why such a restaurant would have such an amazing wine list.

  • Great food, great wines and great times

  • Pork jowl and spam musubis: “Modern Hawaiian”

Checking out the menu gives you your first clues about why this place might be special. A three-course prix-fixe menu for less than $50 is basically unheard of in New York these days. As if that isn’t enough, you can tack on a three-course wine pairing for just $35 more!

Even if the food were bad and the wines were dreck this would be a pretty good deal these days. But as you start to look at the menu you will probably quickly realize there are some really tough choices to be made–because everything sounds amazing! The silken tofu is ridiculously creamy and earthy in the best way; the kabocha squash tempura is probably the dish I would talk about if I were ever on that Food Network show “Best Thing I Ever Ate”. The chicory salad with papaya and pumpkin seeds is refreshing and a brilliant combination and the big-eye tuna poke is Bryn’s go-to. And while all the mains are amazing, the mochiko fried heritage chicken is crisp and crave-worthy and basically a can’t-miss.

Mochiko Fried Heritage Chicken! Seriously the best fried chicken in NYC.

Amazingly, the wine is also not dreck! Usually wines by the glass at restaurants in Manhattan are either not worth drinking because they’re gross or not worth drinking because they cost almost as much as the whole bottle. Not here; all the wines available by the glass are great by-the-glass choices and the pairings (if chosen) are expertly paired with all the dishes.

Sometimes though it is tough to choose the three-course wine pairing because the bottle list is even more amazing than the wines-by-the-glass. There are enough choices at enough price points that you will definitely find something you like–especially with the staff’s help–but not so many choices that it is overwhelming (cough, cough, Union Square Cafe). It is definitely a wine nerd’s wine list. Assuming you listened to my advice and ordered the mochiko fried chicken, consider pairing it with a bottle of the 1994 Poco do Lobo Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva if you see it–just make sure there is still one left for the next time I go ; )

  • Great wines…
  • …and great company

Everything about this restaurant is wonderful, from the food to the beverage program (especially the wine!) to the warm and welcoming staff. It really is the perfect restaurant experience in my opinion. If I could afford to eat here every night I would probably try! Hopefully one of those nights we will see you there too ; )

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CFB: The Finger Lakes

What if there were a place nearby to New York City where the people are friendly, the food and booze are delicious and the scenery is beautfiul? Don’t believe it? Neither did we. That’s why it’s been almost 12 years that Bryn and I have lived in New York but have not visited the Finger Lakes region. Not because we thought it would suck, but just because it we figured it couldn’t really be as good as it sounds.

But on this account, we definitely stand corrected. We drove up just for a short weekend, but everywhere we stopped we found friendly, genuine people who are passionate about what they do. Everywhere we looked we saw Norman Rockwell-worthy scenery.

It’s easy to feel a connection to a place that seems so full of genuine and frinedly people and even in just a short visit I think Bryn and I felt that connection to the Finger Lakes region quite strongly.Don’t miss

Don’t miss

F.L.X. Provisions – Wine Store – Geneva
There is a mini-empire of related businesses all across the Finger Lakes; the “F.L.X.” empire is probably the thing about the Finger Lakes that impressed me the most. While we could not get one of the coveted spots at F.L.X. Table, we did discover this gem of a wine store basically next door (it’s connected to the F.L.X. Fry Bird, which is a fried chicken restaurant–see below–that is next to F.L.X. Table). Not only has this great little shop done the hard work for you to find the best wines from the best wineries in the Finger Lakes–if you see a bottle of wine in this shop it is going to be a good bottle of wine from a good winery–but because they have a Coravin hooked up to a huge tank of argon (I guess it’s argon?) you can taste any wine they have in the shop at very reasonable prices, including wines from Element Winery, which is the winery owned by the F.L.X. team.

I really loved F.L.X. Provisions–it’s my kind of shop–and loved chatting with the manager Donovan who led us through our tastings and geeked out hardcore with me about all things booze, much to Bryn’s chagrin. They also have a great beer selection and you can drink anything you buy in the store at the Fry Bird restaurant too. I can’t really recommend it highly enough. The only drawback is it’s pretty small so there is room for about 4 people to do a tasting at once. During high season it might be worth calling ahead to see if they can slot you in at a specific time.

F.L.X. Wienery – American – Dundee
In case you can’t tell from above, I am a big fan of what they are doing at the “F.L.X.” family of companies, and especially what they are doing at the Wienery. Yes it’s a hot dog restaurant, but it’s also so much more. The wieners and sausages are delicious of course, but the real gem is their crazy and amazing beverage program (yes, it’s a hot dog shop with top-notch booze) and their Saturday night specials (known as “Dundoit Socials” they are basically crazy ideas for a party that come to life every Saturday night, with different themes like Tequila and Tacos or Ramen with a Master Sommelier).

  • F.L.X. Wienery: don’t judge this book by its cover

Maybe the coolest thing about F.L.X. Wienery (or in fact any restaurant I’ve ever been to) is their “Secret Wine Fridge”. It’s a wine fridge in the middle of the restaurant that has no printed list of what’s inside, but you are welcome to look through it and if you find something you like you can buy it and drink it, and there are some serious bottles of wine in there. Their actual (non-secret?) wine list is also legit and they even have DRC on the list, as if it’s not weird to have a $1500 bottle of wine with your $5 hot dog. They have a super-legit beer selection and in case somehow you are not impressed yet they have a crazy good spirits menu with some of the heaviest hitters around (Pappy Van Winkle 23-year-old and George T. Stagg for example). This is exactly what a restaurant should be–cool, casual and welcoming but still pushing the envelope with impeccable taste in everything they do.

Kemmeter Wines – Winery – Penn Yan
If you only visit one winery in the Finger Lakes, I would make it this one. Johannes who owns the winery with his wife, is such a fantastic guy who makes really excellent Rieslings. Make sure you call ahead to schedule an appointment since tastings are by appointment only. You won’t regret the effort since spending time with anyone so genuine and passionate is an unfortunately rare treat these days. In case that is not incentive enough, you will also get to taste some cracking-good wines at the same time. How can you go wrong?

Our tasting of 4 fantastic Rieslings at Kemmeter Wines

Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard – Winery – Dundee
If you only visit two wineries in the Finger Lakes, I would stop here after (or before) Kemmeter Wines (see above). You can call ahead to setup a special Riesling tasting but you don’t need to make an appointment. All their wines are very good but some of their wines–especially the single-vineyard rieslings–are truly excellent and worth tasting at any opportunity. My only (minor) complaint is the wines are more expensive than you might expect when buying direct from the winery, but not so expensive that I would not go back.

  • Tasting room at HJW
  • Just a part of the Riesling tasting at HJW

Argos Inn – Hotel – Ithaca
Staying in Ithaca is not necessarily the best choice for exploring the Finger Lakes region, especially if you are planning to spend the majority of your time visiting wineries–the best of which are mostly clustered around Seneca and Keuka Lakes. But Ithaca is a slighlty more reasonable driving distance from NYC and it is the location of the Argos Inn, which is a totally great place to stay. We normally do not put too much stock into where we are staying–rarely do we need (or care for) more from a hotel than a bed and a hot shower, but we really loved the Argos Inn.

Not only is it a big, cool old house with nicely appointed rooms and heated bathroom floors (a great feature for an Ithaca winter), but it also has a great cocktail bar (Bar Argos) on the ground floor and across the parking lot there is another bar/lounge space (Argos Warehouse) that has a good (and different) cocktail menu plus snacks (including a really fantastic charcuterie plate). Overall a great hospitality experience that I would recommend to anyone staying in Ithaca. Even the coffee served at breakfast was acceptable, which is basically unheard-of for coffee from a free hotel breakfast.

  • Cocktails at Bar Argos
  • Cocktail and charcuterie at Argos Warehouse

Press Cafè – Coffee – Ithaca
If you do stay in Ithaca then make sure to start your mornings here; their coffee game is strong here. Single-origin drip coffee brewed and ready. Plus an an excellent flat white and a cool space to hang out as well as fresh, locally roasted beans for sale. It’s basically what every coffee shop should be. I’ll be back for sure next time I’m in Ithaca.

Flat whites and local beans at Press Cafe

Heart & Hands Wine Company – Winery – Springport
Small little tasting room on the east shore of Cayuga Lake that specializes in Pinot Noirs (they also make Rieslings, but their focus is the red grape). The Pinot Noirs are very good, the Rieslings are good, and the tasting room staff is friendly. When we were there on a Sunday afternoon the co-owner herself was pouring our tasting flights. Their attention to detail and vineyard knowledge is obvious and even though I am fairly skeptical of the weird glass corks they use, I am bullish on their wines and would stop by just to try them any time I am back in the Finger Lakes.

If you have time/are in the area

F.L.X. Fry Bird – Fried Chicken – Geneva
It’s a pretty small place so it can get packed at peak times. The popcorn chicken was fine; it had a somewhat funny, almost cheesy taste that I couldn’t get past although it may have been the dipping sauce and not the chicken itself. The collard greens side was excellent though and so is the drink selection when you consider you can bring something in from F.L.X. Provisions (see above) next door. I’d give it another shot next time I’m near Geneva and need a fried chicken fix, though maybe I would go for a sandwich rather than the popcorn chicken.

Nickel’s Pit BBQ – Barbecue – Watkins Glen
We came very early on a Saturday evening after visiting wineries and got seated right away, but by the time we left there seemed like there was quite a wait. The no reservations policy can make it hard to time this place right and I would not say it is worth waiting for, but if you can get seated relatively quickly then I’d say go for it. If you do decide to wait a bit, they have good beers from Rooster Fish around the corner to help pass the time ; ) We had the pulled pork sandwich and an order of the smoked chicken wings. Both were perfectly cooked and very delicious, although somewhat lacking in that essential BBQ smoke flavor that is pervasive in really great ‘cue (although the room itself basically smelled like a campfire so maybe my senses were thrown off).

Prison City Pub and Brewery – Brewpub – Auburn
Auburn does not seem a likely stop on your tour of the Finger Lakes region, but if you are in the area (Heart & Hands Wine Company–see above–is relatively close) then I would definitely recommend stopping here for some delicious craft beers, including an excellent chocolatey porter and a solid, fruity and hazy New England IPA. But don’t sleep on the food, as their burgers are real good and they make an awesome, if slightly non-traditional, poutine. A great place to spend an evening watching a game with friends.

Dope poutine and beers at Prison City Pub and Brewery

Thompson and Bleecker – Pizza – Ithaca
Apparently this brick-oven pizza place is a big deal for Ithaca since they have been wandering through the pizza desert for a long time, at least that’s the impression I got. At this point I think Thompson and Bleecker is more mirage than promised land, but that is not to say it doesn’t have any potential. The space has nailed the hipster vibe with mismatched china pattern plates and tight spaces between tables. The wine list is intriguing but it always drives me crazy when there are no vintages printed on the wine menu (since I am a pretty severe age-ist when it comes to wine) and since we had basically been drinking all day we didn’t order any drinks with our food.

Hambo pizza: crispy on the outside, but not quite in the middle

Speaking of the food, the Prasini salad had good flavor but needed some textural element to break up the monotony of chopped lettuce, dill and scallion. The Hambo pizza–which we split–also had good flavor components but the large slices of ham coupled with the fact that the pizza was slightly undercooked in the middle meant that all the cheese and toppings came off in one bite–the ultimate pizza fail. That said, the flavors were good and the crust was nicely charred ad crisp on the outer edge like it’s supposed to be, so if they can figure out how to get the middle of the pizza cooked perfectly then they will really have something worth seeking out.

Don’t bother

Seneca Lake Wine Trail Deck The Halls Weekend – Event – Seneca Lake Region
We did not do this, but we were in town at the same time as this event and in tasting at various wineries that were not part of the event it became very clear that not being a part of it was a good idea. It’s basically old-people SantaCon with Finger Lakes wineries instead of New York City bars. If that sounds good to you then I think you are probably reading the wrong blog?

Other than Old-people SantaCon I don’t think there was anything else that we did or saw that was out-and-out not worth our time. Which, frankly, seems impossible. But maybe that’s the cynical New Yorker in me speaking–maybe it is possible in a place like the Finger Lakes where people are friendly and genuinely care about what they do. Shame on us for not making that discovery sooner.

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We’re Not In Kansas Anymore…

THE LONG WEEKEND GUIDE TO KANSAS CITY, MO & KS

My friend Allison and I both have a shared goal of making it to all 50 states.  We take a girl’s trip every year together and this year we thought we were genius when we picked Kansas City and could knock two states from our list for the price of one.  Kansas City has a great happy hour scene, good food and some quirky activities to enjoy.

Don’t Miss

HOTEL INDIGO – Our hotel in the Power & Lights District was in the perfect location and was gorgeous. It had the perfect mid-century modern feel to it and had nice details and touches everywhere you looked.  They offered complimentary coffee in the lobby by Messenger a local KC coffee shop.

MADE IN KC – Cafe and Shop  – Cute store with several locations around Kansas City. They had their Made in KC Café location around the corner from our hotel.  I got a great flat white and their pumpkin cinnamon roll was yummy too! They love to pair up with local artists, bakeries, and gifts and feature them in their store.

CONVIVIAL – Pottery Studio – I found them on Instagram prior to heading to Kansas City.  They make the most beautiful modern pottery.  As someone that took some pottery classes (and wasn’t that great at it), I am super impressed with people that can make such beautiful artistic pieces. They have tours of their facility, but unfortunately one wasn’t happening the weekend that we were there. They sell some of their pieces at MADE IN KC, so I was lucky to snag a piece to bring home with me. 

BANKSIA – Australian Bakery and Cafe – Adorable atmosphere with big wooden shutters inside and a French country, cafe flair. It was casual, yet still polished.  For breakfast, the corn zucchini cilantro fritters were fried to perfection topped with refried beans, a perfectly ripe avocado, and a fried egg that ran all of my plate. It was accompanied by a slice of bacon and roasted tomatoes that popped in my mouth.  They made a delicious flat white as well.

IL LAZARRONE – Pizza Restaurant – They have a wood-fire oven that was shipped in from Naples, Italy to make these 11’’ personal size pizzas.  Since the oven is 800 degrees, it only takes 60-90 seconds to cook. One of the best drinks that I had in KC was the Dracanea which was made of Old Overholt rye, Maurin Quina, pineapple and walnut bitters,and a spicy citrus simple syrup.  It was the perfect balance of smoky, spicy, nutty, and fruity and all of their drinks during happy hour are 20% off, so you have your pick of whatever you want to drink.  Their Happy Hour is Monday-Friday from 3-6pm.  During Happy Hour they have 2 pizzas that are $6 each– the Margarita and the Marinara which only has San Marzano tomatoes,oregano, basil, garlic, extra-virgin olive oil, sea salt but was really well seasoned.  I can’t believe that I am going to say it, but I liked the Marinara pizza better than the Margarita and it doesn’t have any cheese on it!  I know, I couldn’t believe it, either!

JULEP – Cocktail Bar – My favorite happy hour spot in KC.  They have happy hour Monday – Friday from 3-6pm they have $6 Old Fashioneds, Sazaracs, Manhattans, and Whiskey Sours.  I love a good library ladder especially when the climb up is to get some good bourbons and whiskeys and boy did they have a selection.

As for food, we got the BBQ potato chips which were smoky and almost tasted like they had a hint of curry powder on them which paired perfectly with our bourbon cocktails. The cheese board included pickled cherry tomatoes, onions, pickles, fresh bread, salami, pepperoni, & bologna. On the cheese front there was a super soft chèvre and a sharp yellow cheddar.  Yum!

GRINDERS – Lunch – Eclectic dive bar feel with a delicious Philly cheesesteak with provolone sauteed onions and green peppers. They are even served on fresh Amoroso rolls. I mean… I know my cheese steaks (as a Philly girl). Crinkle fries cooked to perfection with Cajun spices and the tater tots had the perfect amount of crunch!

TROLLEY TOUR – This hour and a half long trolley tour starting from Union Station was a great way for us to get the lay of the land on our first day of the trip. Make sure you stop in to look around Union Station since it is stunning.  We were able to get some great tips of other activities to do while we were in KC. We learned that the art museums were all free and that Hallmark was founded in KC.  Can you believe it?  All of my love for Hallmark movies and I didn’t realize their headquarters were right around the corner from me! **BONUS – We found out that the cable car is free all around the city (we took it and it’s super easy).  

OUR DAILY NADA – Restaurant/Bar/Booktore – This place was adorable – part bookstore part bar/restaurant. They have 4 drinks on their happy hour section for $7.  I got the Velvet Nights which was a well-balanced cocktail that had Ford’s Gin, Honey, and Ginger Beer.  Allison got the Huckleberry, made with Reiger’s Whiskey, lemon, and fresh muddled blackberries. Allison is more of a lover of whiskey than fruit, it wasn’t her favorite, but I always love a good blackberry whiskey combo.

THE TOY & MINIATURE MUSEUM – Museum – This is the best $5 you will spend in KC.  The entire first floor is filled with mini furniture, rooms, etc. Many of the miniatures were made in the past 20 years by artists recreating famous pieces of furniture and art in super miniature scales, it is very fascinating.  The second floor holds all kids toys from the 1880’s on.  It was fun to see all of the toys that my parents and I played with over the years. 

THE NELSON-ATKINS MUSEUM OF ART – Museum – Gorgeous (free!) museum with a good mix of impressionist pieces (my favorite) along with modern art.  I love the juxtaposition of the shuttlecocks outside of the old museum set back along the great lawn. 

If you are in the neighborhood…

GRAM & DUN – Restaurant – Breakfast at this place starts at 9:30 am and it’s no surprise that we were the first ones there.  This is a cozy little spot that has table side cocktail service and yummy skillet breakfasts.  I had the short rib and potato  hash and Allison had the hash brown skillet.   Next time I would like to hit up this place for happy hour, they had a beautiful outdoor seating area with a fire pit.  There is a ton of great shopping around here, so make sure you save a little bit of time to window shop around this neighborhood.  

THE FARMHOUSE – Restaurant – Cheese curds were a must, they were basically the most perfect mozzarella stick you could ever eat… perfectly gooey on the inside with the perfect amount of crisp and crunch on the outside.  I ordered the happy hour drink wasn’t the most balanced, so I would skip the cocktails and grab a glass of wine or beer next time to drink with more cheese curds.

CHAR BAR – Bar –  A casual bar that would be a great place to hang out with a big group of friends.  They have a nice big outdoor section as well.  I had the KC Bier Co. Hefeweizen which was enjoyable. Lots of beers on tap and an extensive bottle list as well, they have lots of snack options during their happy hour from 3-6pm on weekdays. We had the deviled eggs with charred lobster and pea shoots for $5 (4 eggs per order).

BEER KITCHEN – Bar– Good if you’re looking for duh, beer! I had the Rise & Pine Dark Ale from Uinta Brewing Co. based out of Salt Lake City, Utah. It was dark, piney and very seasonally appropriate.  Allison got a Manhattan here that tasted more like pine, but they were super nice about switching it out for a glass of vino instead. 

TAVERNONNA – Restaurant – Allison and I shared the Nonna’s meatballs that came with 2 brisket meatballs both the size of tennis balls in a rich, thick red pomodoro and a lemon ricotta. This was one of the highlights, along with our waiter, Dylan, who was hysterical. Inside the Hotel Phillips.

P.S. – Bar – Beautiful speakeasy underneath the Hotel Phillips.  In order to get to the speakeasy, you need to go to the reception desk and they will lead you downstairs.  The bar itself is everything that you want a speakeasy to be.  Dimly list, dark wood paneling and dark green velvet booths.  We sat at the bar and had our carefully curated drinks. I’m not sure if it’s because we were expecting live jazz music or if it was because it was our last stop of the night, but I was a little underwhelmed. 

STROUDS – Lunch – This place is like stepping back in time with the wooden paneling on the walls and the red and white checked table cloths.  Allison and I shared the fried chicken lunch along with bowls of mashed potatoes, gravy, green beans, cinnamon buns and a salad covered in homemade ranch dressing (I was in heaven). This was one of our stops on our “Best Thing I Ever Ate tour”, I wouldn’t necessarily give it that title, but we were glad we tried it.   Thank goodness we shared because it looked more like a Thanksgiving dinner spread than a lunch for one.  We had the sweetest waitress named Elaine that really made us feel welcome. 

JOE’S KANSAS CITY BAR-B-CUE – This is the famous BBQ spot that is in the gas station.  We had to wait about 45 minutes to an hour to get our food, but it was ok because we still had bellies full of fried chicken. I was impressed at how friendly and efficient they were when you finally got to the front of the line to order your food.  We shared the ribs, brisket, and the coleslaw.  It was tasty, but I’m not sure if would have wanted to wait in line for an hour if I was super hungry. 

EXTRA VIRGIN – Restaurant – We came here because it was on the “Best Thing I Ever Ate” for their Duck Tongue Tacos with slaw and queso fresco.  It was good, but honestly, I was hoping that it would be more flavorful. I enjoyed the Persimmon and Garfunkel cocktail (great name) which was a persimmon, sage spritzer that was light, and bright, but is still seasonally appropriate for late fall.  We also had the charred Brussels sprouts with feta, lemon, and bacon and a Greek salad dressed to perfection. 
We ended our meal with the ahi tuna ceviche with rice cracker and Calabrian chili.  It was good, but the chili on this really took over the dish.

SoT – Bar – Adorable cocktail bar with carefully curated drinks.  Trendy decor and cozy seating areas make for a comfortable environment to sip away and catch up with old friends or a spot to make new ones.  

THE BELFRY – Restaurant – Small cozy bar/dinner spot.  We had the cauliflower with a miso-walnut sauce, hot nachos, and I guess it was finally time for some greens.  

WORLD WAR I MUSEUM – There were so many interesting things about this museum, but there was a lot of ground to cover.  The museum was big and where were so many little signs to read that I feel like I missed some of the bigger picture.  I wished that there were a few more videos that would have given more of a refresher as to what WWI was all about.  

Don’t bother…

GATES BBQ – We had heard a lot about Gates both from the “Best Thing I Ever Ate” fame and while around town.  To be fair, we only had the item suggested on the BTIEA, the Burnt Ends on a Bun. But overall it wasn’t my kind of sandwich.  It was very saucy and filled with little chunks of fat and gristle.  Inside, the atmosphere was very dark and dated, many locals and tourists alike  seem to really love this place, but it just wasn’t for me.  

THE KANSAS CITY AIRPORT – Unfortunately, you have no choice but to hit this spot unless you are diving into Kansas City.  However, this was a source of some travel frustration for us…. they didn’t have TSA pre-check and we didn’t realize that the only thing past security was our gate. Leaving us unable to get a coffee prior to boarding our 7am flight (watch out world).  Even our Starbucks sandwich got a TSA patdown. If you’re thinking about coming to Kansas City consider yourself warned. : )

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Iceland: Blue Lagoon & Golden Circle

FIRST, THE BASICS

How long did we go for? Matt and I are big on making sure we utilize a long weekend.  People can really underestimate the power of a long weekend!  We left on the Wednesday night before Labor Day weekend (and so arrived on Thursday morning) and we left on Tuesday morning post-Labor Day.

Could we have stayed longer? Definitely!  Iceland has so many landscapes–geysers. volcanos, waterfalls–and we were right outside of Reykjavik. And on top of all that this is just a very small part of the country. Unless you are *very* outdoorsy, more than a week might be a lot, but with five to seven days you will definitely not get bored. 

What’s the weather like? Cold, windy, rainy. Definitely rainy.  One second the sun was out and the next it was pouring.  Definitely pack a raincoat and boots.  Even though it was the end of August winter gloves and hats came in handy.  

Language? Icelandic and English – Since there are only 350,000 people in the world that speak Icelandic, everyone is required to learn English in school.  So, you are in luck, everyone speaks English, which in this case is good because even though we always try to speak the language when traveling, Iceland even telling people which sites we traveled to, we were nowhere close to pronouncing anything correctly.  

Currency? The Icelandic currency is called the krona. The krona trumps the good ‘ol dollar these days, so just be conscious of what you’re buying especially while shopping.    Most places take credit card and lucky for us most even took AMEX (woohoo!).

Car Rental? we rented a car from Blue Car Rental at the airport. We waited for the shuttle to take us there, but it’s really a stones throw away. We got opted to get the Wi-Fi for the car for an additional $14/day which I think was well worth it.

THE SCOOP ON THE BLUE LAGOON!

Make sure to book it in advance since they can’t guarantee you a spot without advanced booking. We booked the comfort package which includes a towel, a face mask, and drink. They had lots of drink options from prosecco to beer and smoothies -fruit juices. We got ginger mango smoothies, which were delicious.  The premium package also includes a robe, which we would have sprung for had it been any colder (it’s an extra $20/person).

Our flight was delayed 4 hours getting out of JFK due to some mechanical problems, so I was  in panic mode about missing the Blue Lagoon. When you book your ticket, they give you an hour window to get checked in.  We were scheduled for the Blue Lagoon at 10 am and we didn’t arrive until noon. Luckily they were able to squeeze us in. Whew!

Biggest tip for the Blue Lagoon? – conditioner is your best friend! They have free conditioner so don’t be afraid to use it! Lather your hair before and after the lagoon and try to avoid getting your hair wet at all costs unless you like the scarecrow look!

Where can I store my luggage?   – we drove directly to the blue lagoon from the airport, however they do have buses that will bring you from the airport to the blue lagoon and they have a luggage storage center right up front.

Where can I put my stuff while I swim?– the blue lagoon does a great job of providing locks that are connected to wristbands you can wear in the water. You can go back there as many times as you need to get things out of your locker worry free.

IPhones in the water? lots of people had water free cases or pouches and had their phones in the water. I was afraid my phone would get messed up, so I made Matt run through the cold to his locker to get a few water shots.

Cafe Bryggjan (Lunch) After the Blue Lagoon, we were hungry and a little jet lagged and drove about 10 minutes to Cafe Bryggjan for their famous soup.  In Iceland, especially out in the countryside they are big on refillable soup bowls and bread that you serve yourself.  We both got the lobster soup, which was creamy, peppery, and delicious and served with fresh bread.  It was delicious, but in retrospect, since it was refillable, maybe only one of us had to get it and we could have shared a grilled cheese too.  FYI… in Iceland, what they call lobster are what we in the US would call langoustine (basically big shrimp).  Still delicious though.

Lobster soup at Cafe Bryggjan

Btw, can I drink the water? Umm, not the blue lagoon water, no. But everywhere else in Iceland they have the purest water on earth, so you definitely don’t need to buy bottled water.  At almost all of the restaurants we went to they had large glass bottles of water and glasses, so you didn’t need to worry about being thirsty. 

Ok, but did someone lay a rotten egg? Yeah…that’s one thing no one told me about visiting Iceland; it can be a real stinker. Their sulfur levels are a lot higher than in other places and well the water and the air can sometimes be stinky.  At least you don’t have to worry about what happens if your stomach doesn’t like something you ate!

THEN, THE GOLDEN CIRCLE

Frost & Fire Hotel, Hveragerdi – As a home base for the Golden Circle, we stayed in this hotel which overlooked hot springs and the river.  It was lovely hearing the water run by us as we were laying in bed at night.  The hotel offered a complimentary Icelandic-style continental breakfast that included smoked fish, veggies and the bread they make on site.  They also offered skyr, Icelandic yogurt and flat Icelandic waffles you could make yourself.  Every day they make their own rye bread in a hot spring in the ground.  

Geysir – Golden Circle stop #1 for us. Although it’s pretty touristy, it’s still pretty cool! It’s pretty amazing to see what nature can do.  It starts off just looking like a pool of water and then kaboom, the water shoots 150 feet in the air, only a few feet away from you.  Plus it’s free and we didn’t even have to pay for parking at this stop.  

Thingvellir National Park – Golden Circle stop #2 is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  This is a gorgeous park that really shows off all that Iceland has to offer in one spot. There are plenty of hiking trails, waterfalls, it overlooks a picturesque church and cottages.  

Gullfoss – We actually skipped Golden Circle stop #3 because it’s a good distance farther than the other two and frankly it’s just a big waterfall. Having already seen a few of those (Seljalandsfoss, Oxarafoss) we figured we wouldn’t die if we didn’t get to see it.

Restaurant Varma (Dinner) Is the restaurant at the Frost & Fire hotel.  We enjoyed their tasting menu which really highlighted rustic, Icelandic cuisine.  Matt had the lamb and licorice to start  (they love anything and everything licorice in Iceland) this dish might sound strange, but it was delicious).  It tasted almost like a lamb jerky with pickled fennel, onions, fresh blueberries, and croutons made out of the bread from the hot springs out front.  I had the lobster soup, which was cooked in the hot spring, it was an amazing, perfectly seasoned soup, but I knew what I was getting into a little more than with Matt’s first course.  

Lamb & Licorice

For the entree Matt had the lamb once again (lamby night!).  His lamb was cooked for 12 hours in the hot spring and was served along with potatoes and a thyme sauce. While his was delicious, it was much heavier than my entree of lightly cured cod that was served with Jerusalem artichoke puree, picked Jerusalem artichokes, and a lemon dill sauce. 

  • Lamb Shank
  • Cured Cod

WHAT ABOUT NOT-GOLDEN-CIRCLE STUFF?

Solhestar – One of the highlights of the trip for me was riding the Icelandic horses at Solhestar. Icelandic horses are adorable, they have shorter legs then regular horses and absolutely gorgeous manes.  We took a two hour tour in the red lava fields on horseback which overlooked Reykjavik. We were paired up with a family with three little girls that actually live on the Upper East Side.  We had two guides that were both personable and informative. Note there are 2 locations, one out in the Golden Circle and one fairly close to Reykjavik. I thought I had booked the one close to our hotel, but I actually booked the one that overlooks Reykjavik.  Oops…that’s what happens when you can’t read or pronounce anything : )

The stupid-looking plastic suit came in handy when it started pouring rain…

Seljalandsfoss – Don’t Listen to TLC; chase those waterfalls! This one is particularly cool because you can walk behind it. Just to be clear you might get soaked.  But the view is awesome.  Make sure to check out a small path off of the right and apparently there are some hidden waterfalls.  Unfortunately, we didn’t hear about this secret path until after we visited the site.  There is a cute drink and snack cart near the parking lot in case your get hungry.  Fyi, parking is a bit madness at peak times and you will have to pay for it. 750 ISK if I remember correctly.

  • Seljalandsfoss

Mt. Esja – Mt. Esja is the dark and brooding mountain that can be seen towering above Reykjavik. Awesomely, it is not only possible but surprisingly easy to take the bus out from Reykjavik to the Mt. Esja Hiking Center at the bottom of the mountain. From downtown Reykjavik you can take bus No. 5 (eastbound) to Ártún. At Ártún, take bus No. 57 (eastbound) which takes you straight to the mountain. Going by bus to Mt. Esja from downtown Reykjavík takes 45 minutes. 

There are many different trails you can take and although Matt told me the trail we were doing was easy, ugh… not so much. Even though I work out 4-5 days/week I must be honest, i was huffing and puffing a lot on this vertical trek up mountain. We took a 3 1/2 hour hike straight up the mountain at the peak the mountain is 914m (2,999 ft). Even though it was a tough slog, the view from the top was breathtaking.  On the way up we saw lambs climbing the mountain as well as little surprise waterfalls.  I don’t think I have ever been surrounded by such lush greenery.   

There is really no shortage of amazing things to do and see in just this one little corner of Iceland. Hopefully this article will give you a good head start on planning your own amazing outdoor adventure in Iceland!

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What did we drink in Iceland?

What beer didn’t we drink I guess is a better question! In a country where brewing didn’t become legal until 1989 …. These guys are all killing it! There are now 21 craft beer breweries/bars in Iceland. 

The key to affordable drinking in Iceland is happy hour. Grapevine–a local Reykjavik magazine (think like Timeout NY) has a app called “Appy Hour”. Before you leave for your trip, download this friendly app that gives the low-down on happy hour specials in real time. Since beers in Iceland run about $ 15 a pop this will help you to save some scooties (*Hartzell-ism for money).

MUST GO

Ölverk Pizza & Brewery – Hveragerði – Good luck pronouncing that town’s name correctly, but the effort is worth it for this place. Three-and-a-half stars for the beer, plus one-and-a-half stars for the delicious food. Don’t miss the fantastic za’atar bread with beer cheese app (they should definitely make that combo into a pizza!) and the devils on horseback were excellent too. We also tried the pizza with pepperoni and bacon and hot chili sauce which was amazing. FYI –  the pizzas are on the small side but two appetizers plus one pizza and a few beers was a perfect amount for two people. I would definitely come back next time I’m in or near Hveragerði.

Skúli Craft Bar – Reykjavik – Solid selection of craft beers, mostly Borg on the day we were there but that’s okay because Borg makes great beers. Best happy hour specials of the craft beer bars we visited. Borg has an amazing beer called Snorri Nr. 10 that has arctic thyme in it which was included in the happy hour special.  This beer is awesome and can be found in the duty free store at the airport (we were super happy we were able to take this baby home with us)!  The bartender in our case was very friendly and the place was relatively empty for a Saturday afternoon during happy hour. Bonus points for the card games inside and food trucks outside that are a pretty great combo with the beers.

Kex Hostel Reykjavik – Reykjavik – Didn’t stay here but did have happy hour drinks and dinner at the bar. A totally great atmosphere to meet other travelers plus a great food and drink menu. The beers are evenly split between guest taps and Kex’s own brews. I’m not normally a big IPA guy but the Kex Thunder Session IPA was my favorite; it is a great beer. I’d definitely be back for happy hour. Plus they had great chicken wings that were a happy hour special for $6.50.

  • KEX Hostel – Reykjavik

IF YOU HAVE TIME / MAYBE NOT FOR EVERYONE 

RVK Brewing Company – Reykjavik – Sick beers. The Smoked Gose is perfectly balanced between sour and smokey and the stout is light-bodied and bitter enough to hide the alcohol but still roasty and delicious like a good stout should be. Balance is the name of the game here, super well-made beers. Minus one star for being pretty small, out-of-the way with weird hours and no great food options, but the beers by themselves are definitely worth the trip.

Ölvisholt Brewery – Selfoss – It is located in a weird place and definitely has a feeling from the outside like you’re not supposed to be there, but inside the taproom couldn’t be more different. They have a warm space with books and games and picnic tables to enjoy the eight excellent beers on tap plus more by the bottle (if you like stouts, definitely don’t miss Lava, their Smoked Imperial Stout). The staff is also friendly and welcoming, especially Stein, and may even give you a tour of the brewery if you’re lucky : )

My only two complaints are the off hours (I get that it’s a working brewery and they are not trying to stay any later than they have to but midday only is kind of weird) and there is no food at all anywhere around. Those two are a bummer but the beers and people alone would make me come back any time I’m in the area (at the appropriate time of course ; )

Session Craft Bar – Reykjavik – Solid if expensive beer selection. Happy hour beers were ok but just kind of the most boring options they had available. Happy hour or not though, this is the place to taste Malbygg beers, which are some of the best in Reykjavik. I tried the Pale Ale which was very delicious and super drinkable and straddled the bitterness line between piney and tropical very well. Plus on a Saturday afternoon during happy hour when we were there the place was barely half full.
P.S. In case you are not a beer person, they have a couple actually decent wines on the happy hour specials as well.

Bjórgarðurinn – Reykjavik – Fairly big “beergarden” space inside the Fosshótel Reykjavík. Pretty good happy hour specials and a large, good selection of craft beers (mostly Borg, which is not a bad thing) plus Stella and Guinness for some reason. Friendly bartenders and on a Sunday afternoon during happy hour we basically had the entire place to ourselves. They have food too but we didn’t try any of it. Would definitely go back for a drink at happy hour.

DON’T BOTHER

Bryggjan Brugghús – Reykjavik – Didn’t try any of the food, but the beers brewed here were nothing special—the best choices on tap were all guest taps, especially the Mango Pale Ale and Icelandic Ale from Borg (which is pretty awesome). It was pretty crowded on a Saturday night and had much more of a club/bro bar feel than a brewpub feel, which is obviously a turn-off (for me). Minus one star for the creepy old guy at the bar who hit on my wife like basically the entire time.

SUPER BUMMED THAT WE DIDN’T GET TO GO

Mikkeller & Friends – Reykjavik – They share the same space as Hverfisgata 12, right around the corner from Dill Restuarant. Even though Mikkeller is Danish and there is one in NYC we heard really good things about the beer and the pizza and wanted to go. Unfortunately they were closed for a private event and since we saved this spot for our last night we were out of luck. I would definitely try to go back if I were in Reykjavik again.

WANT TO DRINK SOMETHING OTHER THAN BEER?

Port 9 – Reykjavik – This cozy spot had pops of a rich emerald green that was very relaxing and inviting! We had a great time talking to the owner of the bar. His passion for good wine and food really showed in the products he was serving. They had good wines by the glass for happy hour and he was happy to accommodate Matt’s finicky tastes in wine as well. The brie with mango chutney and cashews was the perfect balance of salty, smoky, and sweet. It’s going to be in my new dinner party rotation when we entertain!

Port 9 – Reykjavik

As we mentioned at the beginning, drinking in Iceland is not cheap. It’s important to make sure you choose wisely and plan ahead. Hit up the happy hours, drink local beers as much as possible and enjoy yourself–after all it’s vacation, right?