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CFB: The Finger Lakes

What if there were a place nearby to New York City where the people are friendly, the food and booze are delicious and the scenery is beautfiul? Don’t believe it? Neither did we. That’s why it’s been almost 12 years that Bryn and I have lived in New York but have not visited the Finger Lakes region. Not because we thought it would suck, but just because it we figured it couldn’t really be as good as it sounds.

But on this account, we definitely stand corrected. We drove up just for a short weekend, but everywhere we stopped we found friendly, genuine people who are passionate about what they do. Everywhere we looked we saw Norman Rockwell-worthy scenery.

It’s easy to feel a connection to a place that seems so full of genuine and frinedly people and even in just a short visit I think Bryn and I felt that connection to the Finger Lakes region quite strongly.Don’t miss

Don’t miss

F.L.X. Provisions – Wine Store – Geneva
There is a mini-empire of related businesses all across the Finger Lakes; the “F.L.X.” empire is probably the thing about the Finger Lakes that impressed me the most. While we could not get one of the coveted spots at F.L.X. Table, we did discover this gem of a wine store basically next door (it’s connected to the F.L.X. Fry Bird, which is a fried chicken restaurant–see below–that is next to F.L.X. Table). Not only has this great little shop done the hard work for you to find the best wines from the best wineries in the Finger Lakes–if you see a bottle of wine in this shop it is going to be a good bottle of wine from a good winery–but because they have a Coravin hooked up to a huge tank of argon (I guess it’s argon?) you can taste any wine they have in the shop at very reasonable prices, including wines from Element Winery, which is the winery owned by the F.L.X. team.

I really loved F.L.X. Provisions–it’s my kind of shop–and loved chatting with the manager Donovan who led us through our tastings and geeked out hardcore with me about all things booze, much to Bryn’s chagrin. They also have a great beer selection and you can drink anything you buy in the store at the Fry Bird restaurant too. I can’t really recommend it highly enough. The only drawback is it’s pretty small so there is room for about 4 people to do a tasting at once. During high season it might be worth calling ahead to see if they can slot you in at a specific time.

F.L.X. Wienery – American – Dundee
In case you can’t tell from above, I am a big fan of what they are doing at the “F.L.X.” family of companies, and especially what they are doing at the Wienery. Yes it’s a hot dog restaurant, but it’s also so much more. The wieners and sausages are delicious of course, but the real gem is their crazy and amazing beverage program (yes, it’s a hot dog shop with top-notch booze) and their Saturday night specials (known as “Dundoit Socials” they are basically crazy ideas for a party that come to life every Saturday night, with different themes like Tequila and Tacos or Ramen with a Master Sommelier).

  • F.L.X. Wienery: don’t judge this book by its cover

Maybe the coolest thing about F.L.X. Wienery (or in fact any restaurant I’ve ever been to) is their “Secret Wine Fridge”. It’s a wine fridge in the middle of the restaurant that has no printed list of what’s inside, but you are welcome to look through it and if you find something you like you can buy it and drink it, and there are some serious bottles of wine in there. Their actual (non-secret?) wine list is also legit and they even have DRC on the list, as if it’s not weird to have a $1500 bottle of wine with your $5 hot dog. They have a super-legit beer selection and in case somehow you are not impressed yet they have a crazy good spirits menu with some of the heaviest hitters around (Pappy Van Winkle 23-year-old and George T. Stagg for example). This is exactly what a restaurant should be–cool, casual and welcoming but still pushing the envelope with impeccable taste in everything they do.

Kemmeter Wines – Winery – Penn Yan
If you only visit one winery in the Finger Lakes, I would make it this one. Johannes who owns the winery with his wife, is such a fantastic guy who makes really excellent Rieslings. Make sure you call ahead to schedule an appointment since tastings are by appointment only. You won’t regret the effort since spending time with anyone so genuine and passionate is an unfortunately rare treat these days. In case that is not incentive enough, you will also get to taste some cracking-good wines at the same time. How can you go wrong?

Our tasting of 4 fantastic Rieslings at Kemmeter Wines

Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard – Winery – Dundee
If you only visit two wineries in the Finger Lakes, I would stop here after (or before) Kemmeter Wines (see above). You can call ahead to setup a special Riesling tasting but you don’t need to make an appointment. All their wines are very good but some of their wines–especially the single-vineyard rieslings–are truly excellent and worth tasting at any opportunity. My only (minor) complaint is the wines are more expensive than you might expect when buying direct from the winery, but not so expensive that I would not go back.

  • Tasting room at HJW
  • Just a part of the Riesling tasting at HJW

Argos Inn – Hotel – Ithaca
Staying in Ithaca is not necessarily the best choice for exploring the Finger Lakes region, especially if you are planning to spend the majority of your time visiting wineries–the best of which are mostly clustered around Seneca and Keuka Lakes. But Ithaca is a slighlty more reasonable driving distance from NYC and it is the location of the Argos Inn, which is a totally great place to stay. We normally do not put too much stock into where we are staying–rarely do we need (or care for) more from a hotel than a bed and a hot shower, but we really loved the Argos Inn.

Not only is it a big, cool old house with nicely appointed rooms and heated bathroom floors (a great feature for an Ithaca winter), but it also has a great cocktail bar (Bar Argos) on the ground floor and across the parking lot there is another bar/lounge space (Argos Warehouse) that has a good (and different) cocktail menu plus snacks (including a really fantastic charcuterie plate). Overall a great hospitality experience that I would recommend to anyone staying in Ithaca. Even the coffee served at breakfast was acceptable, which is basically unheard-of for coffee from a free hotel breakfast.

  • Cocktails at Bar Argos
  • Cocktail and charcuterie at Argos Warehouse

Press Cafè – Coffee – Ithaca
If you do stay in Ithaca then make sure to start your mornings here; their coffee game is strong here. Single-origin drip coffee brewed and ready. Plus an an excellent flat white and a cool space to hang out as well as fresh, locally roasted beans for sale. It’s basically what every coffee shop should be. I’ll be back for sure next time I’m in Ithaca.

Flat whites and local beans at Press Cafe

Heart & Hands Wine Company – Winery – Springport
Small little tasting room on the east shore of Cayuga Lake that specializes in Pinot Noirs (they also make Rieslings, but their focus is the red grape). The Pinot Noirs are very good, the Rieslings are good, and the tasting room staff is friendly. When we were there on a Sunday afternoon the co-owner herself was pouring our tasting flights. Their attention to detail and vineyard knowledge is obvious and even though I am fairly skeptical of the weird glass corks they use, I am bullish on their wines and would stop by just to try them any time I am back in the Finger Lakes.

If you have time/are in the area

F.L.X. Fry Bird – Fried Chicken – Geneva
It’s a pretty small place so it can get packed at peak times. The popcorn chicken was fine; it had a somewhat funny, almost cheesy taste that I couldn’t get past although it may have been the dipping sauce and not the chicken itself. The collard greens side was excellent though and so is the drink selection when you consider you can bring something in from F.L.X. Provisions (see above) next door. I’d give it another shot next time I’m near Geneva and need a fried chicken fix, though maybe I would go for a sandwich rather than the popcorn chicken.

Nickel’s Pit BBQ – Barbecue – Watkins Glen
We came very early on a Saturday evening after visiting wineries and got seated right away, but by the time we left there seemed like there was quite a wait. The no reservations policy can make it hard to time this place right and I would not say it is worth waiting for, but if you can get seated relatively quickly then I’d say go for it. If you do decide to wait a bit, they have good beers from Rooster Fish around the corner to help pass the time ; ) We had the pulled pork sandwich and an order of the smoked chicken wings. Both were perfectly cooked and very delicious, although somewhat lacking in that essential BBQ smoke flavor that is pervasive in really great ‘cue (although the room itself basically smelled like a campfire so maybe my senses were thrown off).

Prison City Pub and Brewery – Brewpub – Auburn
Auburn does not seem a likely stop on your tour of the Finger Lakes region, but if you are in the area (Heart & Hands Wine Company–see above–is relatively close) then I would definitely recommend stopping here for some delicious craft beers, including an excellent chocolatey porter and a solid, fruity and hazy New England IPA. But don’t sleep on the food, as their burgers are real good and they make an awesome, if slightly non-traditional, poutine. A great place to spend an evening watching a game with friends.

Dope poutine and beers at Prison City Pub and Brewery

Thompson and Bleecker – Pizza – Ithaca
Apparently this brick-oven pizza place is a big deal for Ithaca since they have been wandering through the pizza desert for a long time, at least that’s the impression I got. At this point I think Thompson and Bleecker is more mirage than promised land, but that is not to say it doesn’t have any potential. The space has nailed the hipster vibe with mismatched china pattern plates and tight spaces between tables. The wine list is intriguing but it always drives me crazy when there are no vintages printed on the wine menu (since I am a pretty severe age-ist when it comes to wine) and since we had basically been drinking all day we didn’t order any drinks with our food.

Hambo pizza: crispy on the outside, but not quite in the middle

Speaking of the food, the Prasini salad had good flavor but needed some textural element to break up the monotony of chopped lettuce, dill and scallion. The Hambo pizza–which we split–also had good flavor components but the large slices of ham coupled with the fact that the pizza was slightly undercooked in the middle meant that all the cheese and toppings came off in one bite–the ultimate pizza fail. That said, the flavors were good and the crust was nicely charred ad crisp on the outer edge like it’s supposed to be, so if they can figure out how to get the middle of the pizza cooked perfectly then they will really have something worth seeking out.

Don’t bother

Seneca Lake Wine Trail Deck The Halls Weekend – Event – Seneca Lake Region
We did not do this, but we were in town at the same time as this event and in tasting at various wineries that were not part of the event it became very clear that not being a part of it was a good idea. It’s basically old-people SantaCon with Finger Lakes wineries instead of New York City bars. If that sounds good to you then I think you are probably reading the wrong blog?

Other than Old-people SantaCon I don’t think there was anything else that we did or saw that was out-and-out not worth our time. Which, frankly, seems impossible. But maybe that’s the cynical New Yorker in me speaking–maybe it is possible in a place like the Finger Lakes where people are friendly and genuinely care about what they do. Shame on us for not making that discovery sooner.

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Austin barbecue: everything you need to know

If there’s one thing people ask me the most about Austin it’s where to get the best barbecue. Not only is Austin smack-dab in the heart of Texas BBQ country, but there are a huge number of choices about where to get your ‘cue. To make matters worse, the “Best BBQ” is a hot topic around those parts (and these parts) with a lot of different opinions, bogus or conflicting information and just plain bad taste. So, that all being said–assuming you trust my taste (otherwise why are you even reading this drivel)–let me contribute one more set of opinions to the pool : )

I would definitely trust this guy’s opinions on BBQ…

Don’t miss

Franklin Barbecue
Don’t get me wrong, this is definitely the best Texas-style BBQ I think I’ve ever had. Everything is delicious, even the potato salad (which I generally hate), the flavors are pure and meaty and smokey and the people at the counter are somehow pleasant despite the never-ending waves of people ordering way too much barbecue. The problem is the line; no food is so good it’s worth waiting 3 hours for on a good day. If you somehow manage to get this barbecue without waiting in line for it, then do whatever you have to do. But I just can’t condone spending that much time standing around when there are places almost as good with nowhere near as much of a line.

Note if you have a bunch of friends and a stack of cash as well as some forethought, you can pre-order BBQ from Franklin. You need to order at least five pounds of meat, which all in all will likely set you back $150 or more, and you’ll have to find somewhere besides the restaurant to eat it, but if that works for you it is a good way to avoid the line.

La Barbecue
On a good day, the brisket here is just as good as Franklin’s (see above). Unfortunately on a good day the line here seems to move just as slowly than Franklin’s (if not more so!) It’s too bad because the meat is super-duper good as are the crazy sandwiches they put together (the sides are just ok), but I still feel like you can get barbecue which is almost as good without being made to feel like cattle to the slaughter, being slowly herded to your beefy demise (ok, fine, it is kind of a weird analogy). Go to nearby Kerlin BBQ and then spend your extra free hour enjoying the outdoors by Town Lake or climbing at ABP or something!

That said, pre-ordering is also possible at La Barbecue and they only require pre-orders to be one pound of meat (as opposed to the five pound minimum for pre-ordering at Franklin, see above), so it is more reasonable for one or two people to try it. You still need to be able to plan ahead at least three days (something I am very not good at) and find somewhere to eat it, but in my opinion this is by far the best way to get your hands on some of the best BBQ I’ve ever tasted.

Micklethwait Craft Meats
Micklethwait is my favorite spot for BBQ in Austin. It may not strictly be the best pure BBQ in Austin (see Franklin Barbecue and La Barbecue, above), but it is very close and you will not have to wait nearly as long for it. Plus they are bit more creative with their meats and sides than either of the two above, which is especially refreshing if you are on a barbecue marathon (quite common around these parts, I assure you). The meats are always moist and delicious, especially the brisket and smoked beef rib and I love that they have lamb and barbacoa as options too. Normally sides at a really good BBQ place are basically an afterthought for the kitchen, but you should not skip the delicious and unique grits, which are some of my favorite BBQ sides ever.

Barbacoa and brisket plate with grits and beans and a Diet Coke because we are apparently watching our figures.

Pro-tip: it is pronounced “Mickle wait”; the t and the h are apparently silent. So now you can look, eat and sound like a a BBQ expert.

Kerlin BBQ
Kerlin is a close second for me in terms of the best accessible BBQ in Austin. I love the location, I could basically spend the entire day on this block or two of Cesar Chavez, bouncing between Veracruz and Kerlin and Flat Track  and Weather Up. The brisket at Kerlin is smokey and fatty but not too fatty–simply perfect on a slice of white bread with a pickle, a slice of raw onion and a drizzle of BBQ sauce. To me it is pure, traditional BBQ the way the good Lord intended (to use a phrase I picked up in Texas).

And, just when you thought this was some boring old trailer serving boring old “traditional” BBQ: bam! Smoked corn on the cob! Boom! BBQ kolaches!  The kolaches are awesome, even if they didn’t serve anything else this would probably be one of my favorite trailers in Austin. Don’t miss it!

Maybe not for everyone/if you are in the neighborhood

Terry Black’s Barbecue
Terry Black’s and Black’s (below) are apparently owned by the same family, so they are both about the same in terms of barbecue: solid, dependable, good brisket, good sides. Usually short lines make these good choices for a lunch break when you have a real job and don’t have time to stand in line for barbecue for 2 hours. Also they do catering pretty well so they are good choices for getting lunch for you and your twenty closest friends (which is something you often have to do when on a recruiting trip).

Lamberts
Lamberts is not the best barbecue in Austin, but it does have some other things going for it. For one, it’s right downtown so if you are not in the mood to drive (or at least get in an Uber) then it is probably very accesible to where you’re staying (although that benefit is mitigated these days by the presence of Cooper’s Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que Austin, below). Secondly, it’s fancy, so if you need a BBQ place to go with your parents who will not be happy about eating at a trailer or on a picnic table then this could be your spot. Thirdly, it’s open for dinner, which is not necessarily a given for BBQ joints, so again, could be a good choice for dinner with your parents or someone else you want to show that you have at least a modicum of class (suffice it to say I never feel the need to come here ; )

Black’s BBQ
Terry Black’s (above) and Black’s are apparently owned by the same family, so they are both about the same in terms of barbecue: solid, dependable, good brisket, good sides. Personally I think the meat at Black’s is a bit better but Terry Black’s edges past on the sides. It’s really splitting hairs though. Usually short lines make these good choices for a lunch break when you have a real job and don’t have time to stand in line for Franklin or La Barbecue.

Stiles Switch BBQ and Brew
Solid choice for smoked meats in North Austin, there is usually not too much of a line and there is pretty ample space for seating inside. Brisket is generally if not perfectly moist but the jalapeno-cheddar sausage could use a bit more cheddar and jalapenos. Corn casserole is a brilliant combination of corn bread and creamed corn and a can’t-miss side. Not necessarily worth the trip out of your way but a good option if you happen to be craving BBQ in that part of town.

Brisket and jalapeno-cheddar sausage plate from Stiles Switch BBQ and Brew

Don’t bother

Kreuz Market
Kreuz Market is one of the three well-known old-school BBQ joints in Lockhart, Texas, about 45 minutes south of Austin. It has been serving smoked meats for more than 100 years and making the trip to Lockhart feels like a pilgrimage to BBQ mecca, but it feels to me like it’s resting on its laurels a bit at this point. The brisket is dry and they are militantly anti-sauce (and anti-utensils) which doesn’t help. Supposedly they are known for their smoked sausages, which were good, but not demonstrably better than the smoked sausages you can get at basically all the other BBQ places above. (Plus have you ever really had a bad smoked sausage?) I would not say it is worth the trip or even the stop if you are already in or near Lockhart for some other reason.

Iron Works Barbecue
It’s got a cool “old-timey barbecue” vibe inside, but unfortunately the meats and sides fall flat; they are nothing to write home about and with so many other great barbecue options nearby there is not much reason I can find to come back here.

Snow’s BBQ
It was a long drive out to Lexington on a cold, bright and early Saturday morning so maybe I was expecting too much but I was underwhelmed by the barbecue here. The brisket was not dry but neither was it particularly moist. Certainly it was not special enough to go an hour out of your way at 7:00a; maybe I got it on a bad day but I just can’t recommend it unless you are somehow already in Lexington at 8:00a on a Saturday (which you would definitely never be, I am quite sure).

The Salt Lick
This place looks cool on TV shows and it feels authentic being in the middle of nowhere outside of Austin but it is legitimately not good BBQ. It is basically a big barbecue factory, with all the negative connotations that phrase implies. Very disappointing; I cannot recommend it at all.