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CFB: Black Hills and Badlands of South Dakota

If you think this post is going to be about Mt. Rushmore, think again! Ok, yes, we went there, because it is basically a requirement in the Instagram era to put some Mt. Rushmore selfies on the internet, but ultimately this part of South Dakota is about much more. The beauty of the landscape is quintessetially America and many of those beautiful places have historical significance too. This is the kind of place to come and be outdoors as much as possible.

On that note, make sure you come dressed and prepared for the outdoors. Real hiking boots, moisture-wicking socks and undershirts, sunscreen, a jacket and a pack will all come in great handy, even on short day hikes since the weather can be fickle. Also make sure you pack plenty of water.

One more thing that is important to note, this is an early-to-bed, Sunday-is-a-day-of-rest kind of place. I don’t think we saw a single restaurant that was open for dinner past 8:00p, and very litle is open on Sundays, even in Rapid City. Grocery stores will be open, but very few restaurants, so either reserve well ahead or plan to make your own dinner (a great idea in my opinion if you have access to a grill!)

Don’t miss

Dakota BBQ LLC – Barbecue Restaurant – Custer
Really friendly people making great BBQ. Gotta get there early, especially if you want ribs, but even if you miss out on ribs you won’t be disappointed. The pulled pork is awesome; so moist but still distinctly porky. Get it naked or on a sandwich and don’t skip the baked beans—homemade of course—which are sweet and saucy and super delicious.

Black Hills Burger and Bun Co – Hamburger Restaurant – Custer
Really delicious burgers and fries. Patties are juicy and the buns are perfectly soft. Malted milkshakes are great too. All in all a great place for dinner. Minus one star for not being open for dinner on the weekends though. What’s up with that?

Red Shirt Table Overlook – Vista Point – Hermosa
A really crazy view of the Badlands within (relatively) easy striking distance from the Custer area. A great place for otherworldly photos, especially at sunset. Also a decent place to do a little stargazing if you have a blanket or a pickup truck bed ; ) On a clear night the stars are magical. Visiting at sundown and staying until the stars came out was possibly my favorite experience of the whole trip.

  • South Dakota Badlands
  • Waiting for the stars to come out

Canyon Lake Liquors – Liquor Store – Rapid City
Great place to buy good wine in what seems like an otherwise wine dead zone. Prices are high but where else in South Dakota are you going to find wine that doesn’t have a picture of a cartoon donkey on the front.

The Custer Beacon – Event Venue – Custer
A pretty cool spot in an otherwise not particularly cool little town. It feels like the sort of place that would be almost like a de facto cultural center—it definitely has a lot of potential. Lots of fun shows and even an annual air guitar competition (?!) Acoustics could be a bit better but the atmosphere and decent selection of craft beer is hard to deny.

Skogen Kitchen – American Restaurant – Custer
Amazing find in sleepy little Custer, SD! It’s small, so make reservations, but it’s worth the extra leg work. Highlights of our meal were the morel risotto daily special, the veal sweetbreads with aji amarilo, the free-range chicken with muhammara and the pork chop with green papaya salad. Plus they have by far the most sophisticated wine list maybe in the whole state. It’s a small list that skews mostly American but there are wines at every price point and definitely some good deals. As if that wasn’t enough it is one of the few places open on Sunday for dinner. They also have a killer brunch with amazing pancakes.

  • Veal sweatbreads and morel risotto
  • Scallops, pork chop, and good wine
  • Delicious brunch…
  • …with fried chicken and pancakes!

Cream – Ice Cream Shop – Hill City
This ice cream shops pulls their espresso from a LaMarzocco so you know they mean business when it comes to their coffee. In fact it is the only legit coffee shop we found outside of Rapid City. They make a well-made 8-oz (“small latte”) and also had French-pressed coffee brewed and ready to serve. Plus the homemade ice cream comes in a number of inventive flavors and is *real* good.

Lost Cabin Beer Co. – Brewery – Rapid City
Great beers (very well made and a large and diverse selection) and really friendly staff. It’s not huge inside but a nice place to hang out with friends and have a pint over tater tots from the food truck in the parking lot. I’d definitely be back for more smoked coffee stout and tater tots!

Pure Bean Coffeehouse – Coffee Shop – Rapid City
Strong coffee game for sure; in fact the best we found in all of South Dakota. Good single origin drip coffee and an excellent cortado (8 oz) pulled from a Mavam espresso machine. I would definitely come back for coffee and a cookie anytime I’m in Rapid City.

N.B. If you are in the market for coffee and aren’t sure about the fact that the bags have no indication of the coffee’s roast date, I am told that all the coffee is freshly roasted and none of the coffee bags on the shelf should be more than a couple days old.

Custer State Park Wildlife Loop Road – Wildlife Viewing – East Custer
This is a really beautiful drive through the park with lots of opportunities to see native wildlife like bison, pronghorn antelope, prairie dogs and even donkeys (!) The drive is beautiful and there is a good chance to see wildlife but the part that I would recommend not to miss is the hike on the Prairie Trail. There is a small parking lot and a bathroom at the Prairie Trail Trailhead on Wildlife Loop Rd. Hiking through the wilderness is a much better way to experience the beauty of this area than driving, and you might even happen upon some bison!

If you have time/are in the area

Black Elk Peak – Hiking – Sylvan Lake
The trail was snowy and muddy as all get out in late May (!) but it was a fun (if wet) slog to the top. The top was slightly underwhelming though; the views are spectacular but the top can be crowded. Also we had a really hard time finding the USGS high point marker. Overall it wasn’t bad just not the most exciting high-point experience of my life.

Baker’s Bakery & Café – Breakfast Restaurant – Custer
I would describe it as a fairly standard diner-type spot. The breakfast and pastries are homemade but lacked the artisanal touch I was really hoping for. Bryn thought the doughnuts reminded here of her childhood, I thought they reminded me of Dunkin’. There is one shining star of the breakfast menu though, the the western omelette with a side of green chile sauce that is the bomb.

Mt. Rushmore Brewing Company – Brewpub – Custer
Some of the beers are really good, but others still need some work. The oatmeal stout, the cranberry juniper (!) special ale and the scotch ale are all strong choices. The IPAs and porters left a lot to be desired. Similarly for the food, stick to traditional bar food: the chicken wings are super-duper and the bratwurst is solid but I would not order the pizza again. Overall it is a place to eat in Custer that may be open when other places are not open, but it is definitely not worth going out of your way for.

Don’t bother

Wind Cave National Park Visitor Center – Cave Tour – Hot Springs
Unless you manage to get on the Wild Cave tour (crawling required) or potentially the Candlelight tour (some off trail travel) I would definitely skip this overly touristy stop in Wind Cave National Park. The park itself is cool and there is lots of great-looking hiking as well as a herd of bison you can see from the road, but the cave tours are pretty lame. There is nothing natural about the Natural Entrance tour–everything has been widened and paved for ease of access and it feels too manicured and a bit like waiting in line for some sort of Indiana Jones-themed ride at Disney World. Plus almost no real information is given about the caves and their history and significance to the native peoples, which would have at least made the tour more interesting if it wasn’t going to be very exciting.

Knuckle Saloon – Gastropub – Sturgis
First of all, this is NOT a Gastropub. Tricked again by Google Maps, I guess. In reality, it is just your average dive bar with tons of tchotchkes and junk all over the place, which makes it feel a little too much like a Disney World version of a dive bar. The food is just regular bar food. Perhaps it is just not my type of place but I would skip it next time.

Mount Rushmore National Memorial – Memorial Park – Keystone
This may be blasphemy but just stick with me here. It’s Mt. Rushmore. You know it, you (probably) love it, but it’s just a bunch of heads carved into a rock. It is actually kind of cool up close, and $10 for one carload is somewhat reasonable, but you don’t realy *need* to do this to have a great time in South Dakota. If you do decide to come here there is no way I can see that you would need anymore than 20 minutes at the monument. In a way it’s kind of a victim of its own fame; it looks exactly like what you expepct it to look like. There is no mystery, no wonder, no real interest unfortunately. Snap those selfies and get on to the good stuff!

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CFB: Everything you need to know about Asheville, North Carolina

  • Appalachians: Mount Pisgah

Asheville is a vibrant city in North Carolina’s Blue Ridge Mountains known for its local breweries, outdoorsy lifestyle and art scene. There are over 25 different breweries and an amazing foodie scene. Unlike other Southern towns definitely has a more of hippy dippy rather than preppy vibe.

Within the past year, I have been lucky enough to head to Asheville, North Carolina for two very happy occasions. First, Matt’s best friend got married in the mountains right outside of Asheville (as pictured above) , and then most recently, my future sister-in-law’s bachelorette party. I had two completely different experiences there, but both were a blast.

How do you get there? – They do have direct flights into Asheville, but they can be expensive! We flew into Charlotte and then took a 2 hour drive to Asheville. Nothing like a good roadtrip 🙂 Along the way if you get hungry make sure you add Bridges BBQ as a pitstop for food. Their Carolina pulled pork can’t be beat!

  • Carolina BBQ!

Must Do:

Flora & Forage – Coffee & Flower Shop – West Asheville – This place is everything I look for in a coffee shop and shopping experience. It is part coffee shop/part flower shop and was just adorable. They have so many cozy nooks that I could envision myself enjoying a cup of coffee here while getting work done or a glass of wine in the afternoon. They have adorable planters for sale and it was an Instagramer’s paradise.

City Bakery- Breakfast – Asheville – Delicious breakfast sandwiches–including the fresh foccacia with sausage, apple butter, spinach and eggs! I also had the mushroom and swiss quiche which had a cornmeal crisp on the bottom rather than a thick pie shell. It was accompanied by a side salad, which I loved since it didn’t feel too heavy and was a good way to start a long day of stuffing ourselves. They had a lavender latte that had the perfect floral element to it.

  • Sausage & cheese breakfast sammie
  • Mushroom & swiss quiche


Sunny Point Cafe -“Blunch” – West Asheville – They’re big on the “Blunch” front in Asheville. Lest you think they are being different for difference’s sake, there is a difference between “brunch” and “blunch”: “blunch” is much heavier on the lunch front whereas “brunch” implies there will be more breakfast-type items. (Seriously.)

Either way, you will love this super busy local spot in West Asheville, starting with the best bacon you’ve ever had! It was thick and super crunchy (aka Hartzell-style). I had the pimento, tomato, bacon omelet with foccacia. Pimento cheese is the perfect omelet cheese since it melts all over everything! I got the salad with a hemp dressing to go along with it. Mom got the pecan encrusted fried green tomatoes with goat cheese and a chipotle remoulade. They were perfectly fried, and didn’t feel too heavy.
Grab a cup of joe while you wait outside! No reservations, it might take a little while, but take a seat on a bench under the big trees and dog watch! Try to get David Jones as a server, he’s got a great energy! If it’s monkey bread day definitely grab one for the table.

  • Fried Green Tomatoes
  • The Southern omelet

Rhubarb – Dinner – Asheville – This farm to table restaurant is a tough one to get into, so make sure you make reservations. We ordered a bunch of small plates that we shared. The highlights included their cassoulet with foraged mushrooms, pesto, and beans which was superb. The other stand outs included the Mongolian barbecued lamb ribs with collard green kimchi and the goat cheese burruta with rhubarb jam and crunchy onions

  • Buratta – So yummy!

The Rhu – Breakfast – Asheville – Around the corner from Rhubarb is their little sister restaurant “The Rhu.”The Rhu also features farm fresh ingredients just like Rhubarb, but is done in a more casual atmosphere. They have good coffee and freshly baked pastries if you want to grab and go quickly. They also offer breakfast toasts, homemade granola and breakfast sandwiches.

When I was there the first time around, I actually got a breakfast salad, which seems to be a big thing in Asheville. Mine included a frisee salad, a soft boiled egg, bacon, and other roasted veggies. They also had a bunch of lunch options and you can even order picnic baskets to go here.


New Belgium Brewing Company – Brewery – Home of Fat Tire beer, this place is no stranger to the craft beer scene. It actually began over 30 years ago in Denver and made its way over the the east coast in 2016. New Belgium Brewing has a huge beautiful facility right on the river which was perfect way to unwind after the week and spend a Spring afternoon. They have over 25 taps on location and were launching special releases every few hours while we were there, luring you to stick around longer to try out the newest creative draught.

They had a huge lawn spread out with picnic tables, a couple of food trucks and friends and their dogs just hanging out enjoying some good beer and sun. We didn’t take one, but they offer tours as well. If they happen to have the Passion Fruit Kolsh on tap do it! It was so refreshing.

Burial – Brewery – Asheville – Burial has a great mix of different inventive beers. Fabulous outdoor space with lots of different seating areas. Picnic tables with big umbrellas and a large stage where bands play and they have beer brewing talks make for a great place to hang out during happy hour and on the weekends. I got a flight of four beers that included a pineapple beer (that even my mother found palatable) and a wildflower saison that was super unique.

Battery Park Book Exchange and Champagne Bar – Bar & Store – Asheville– We stumbled on this little gem late Saturday afternoon before heading to dinner. We were all tired from a day of shopping and over indulging all day and were in the mood for a relaxing environment where we could grab a drink and a seat for six without struggling. All of a sudden, we turned the corner and stumbled upon this place. They have a beautiful assortment of used books that focus on North Carolina, the South and the Civil War. The place is super cozy and had so many nooks that you could sit in on a date or with friends. It was gorgeous out, so we opted to sit outside while a live jazz band played in the background. They have over 80 options of beverages to choose from that from what I’ve heard rotate frequently.

The Biltmore Estate – Museum & Wine Tasting – Asheville – Absolutely stunning estate. Those Vanderbilts really knew what a vacation home should look like… wow. I went to the Vanderbilts’ other house in Newport, Rhode Island and it’s hard to believe that they only vacationed in these estates for a few weeks the entire year. The Biltmore estate was very well organized and their headset tours made it a much more educational experience. We visited at the end of March and even though the gardens weren’t in full bloom yet, they were starting to look stunning.

If you drive further down the road on the estate you will drive past their farm including new little baby sheep. We had a nice lunch sitting outside next to their winery. They had a wine tasting that featured 22 different wines that was included in the price of admission to the estate. Make sure to save a little time to check out their cute boutique near the winery.

We thought that it was a little crazy that all of the literature we read talked about spending the entire day at the estate. However, we did just that! We arrived around 9:30am and didn’t leave until 5:30pm. Sure beats a day at the office.

If you have time/If you’re in the neighborhood:

White Labs Kitchen & Tap – Dinner – Asheville – This place was a bit out of the way… the location almost felt like we were going to a doctor’s office in a neighborhood instead of a hip brewery. But once we were inside we had a great experience. We had heard great things about their kimchi fries and man oh man they were delicious. The Lactobacillus-brined fries were perfectly crispy with acidic kimchi and crispy brisket on top. They had an awesome spicy mayo on top too.

We also shared the duck pizza and a Brussels spout pizza. We had a some interesting wheat wines made with Australian and California strands of yeast. They had a great outdoor space out front as well as upstairs. They apparently also offer a lot of classes there as well which I would definitely try to check out next time I’m in Asheville.

Chestnut – Dinner – Asheville – We stayed at the Marriott Aloft directly across the street from the restaurant Chestnut which made for a great commute home. The food here was delicious. I had the shrimp and grits which were peppery and delicious. They did a great job of having different sized options on the menu. For instance, you could get a filet mignon with mashed potatoes and green beans for only $16. All of their food was delicious, but we were coming off of all day eating spree, so to be honest, I just wasn’t as hungry as I wanted to be while dining here.

Hole – Doughnuts – West Asheville – These yeast doughnuts are made to order and get covered in delicious toppings like vanilla glaze, orange cardamom, sesame seeds, and cinnamon sugar. The doughnuts are super fresh and melt in your mouth. The staff is really friendly and nice to be around and they have both indoor and outdoor seating. It’s a little off the beat and path, but if you are in West Asheville it’s worth making your way over to grab a doughnut or two.

Twin Leaf – Brewery – Asheville – Thursday night is karaoke night… it was fun at first, but then, the same people kept singing over and over again. I tried two of their more unique beers, the “Pink Peppercorn Gose” which was delicious and very peppery and their “Like the Moon”- plum and blue basil sour farmhouse ale which tasted just like it sounds. I would give this place another shot, but on another night.

Oyster House Brewing Co – Brewery – West Asheville-Directly across the street from Sunny Point Cafe known for their “Moonstone Stout” made with oyster shells to give it added brine. I thought that these were good, but to be honest, I’m not much of a stout person, so I might not be the best judge.

Wicked Weed’s Funkatorium – Brewery – Asheville – Wicked Weed is a pretty famous brewery in Asheville. It’s so popular that they actually have a second location in Asheville called the Funkatorium… it’s focus is really on their funkier beers – like sours. This place would be awesome to meet a large group of friends here on a Saturday afternoon. It has a lot of indoor and outdoor space to order food, brews and enjoy some good company.

  • Like sucking on a lemon 😉
  • Sour Power!

Take a hike….

If you decide you want to get out into nature…. head to the Pisgah National Forest, where you can hike and spend time in the fresh air. Matt’s best friend got married at the Pisgah Inn, overlooking the mountains and it was just stunning. It’s only a 1/2 hour drive from Asheville, so getting there gives you the perfect mix of city/nature life.

  • What a view!
  • Getting my hike on!
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We’re Not In Kansas Anymore…

THE LONG WEEKEND GUIDE TO KANSAS CITY, MO & KS

My friend Allison and I both have a shared goal of making it to all 50 states.  We take a girl’s trip every year together and this year we thought we were genius when we picked Kansas City and could knock two states from our list for the price of one.  Kansas City has a great happy hour scene, good food and some quirky activities to enjoy.

Don’t Miss

HOTEL INDIGO – Our hotel in the Power & Lights District was in the perfect location and was gorgeous. It had the perfect mid-century modern feel to it and had nice details and touches everywhere you looked.  They offered complimentary coffee in the lobby by Messenger a local KC coffee shop.

MADE IN KC – Cafe and Shop  – Cute store with several locations around Kansas City. They had their Made in KC Café location around the corner from our hotel.  I got a great flat white and their pumpkin cinnamon roll was yummy too! They love to pair up with local artists, bakeries, and gifts and feature them in their store.

CONVIVIAL – Pottery Studio – I found them on Instagram prior to heading to Kansas City.  They make the most beautiful modern pottery.  As someone that took some pottery classes (and wasn’t that great at it), I am super impressed with people that can make such beautiful artistic pieces. They have tours of their facility, but unfortunately one wasn’t happening the weekend that we were there. They sell some of their pieces at MADE IN KC, so I was lucky to snag a piece to bring home with me. 

BANKSIA – Australian Bakery and Cafe – Adorable atmosphere with big wooden shutters inside and a French country, cafe flair. It was casual, yet still polished.  For breakfast, the corn zucchini cilantro fritters were fried to perfection topped with refried beans, a perfectly ripe avocado, and a fried egg that ran all of my plate. It was accompanied by a slice of bacon and roasted tomatoes that popped in my mouth.  They made a delicious flat white as well.

IL LAZARRONE – Pizza Restaurant – They have a wood-fire oven that was shipped in from Naples, Italy to make these 11’’ personal size pizzas.  Since the oven is 800 degrees, it only takes 60-90 seconds to cook. One of the best drinks that I had in KC was the Dracanea which was made of Old Overholt rye, Maurin Quina, pineapple and walnut bitters,and a spicy citrus simple syrup.  It was the perfect balance of smoky, spicy, nutty, and fruity and all of their drinks during happy hour are 20% off, so you have your pick of whatever you want to drink.  Their Happy Hour is Monday-Friday from 3-6pm.  During Happy Hour they have 2 pizzas that are $6 each– the Margarita and the Marinara which only has San Marzano tomatoes,oregano, basil, garlic, extra-virgin olive oil, sea salt but was really well seasoned.  I can’t believe that I am going to say it, but I liked the Marinara pizza better than the Margarita and it doesn’t have any cheese on it!  I know, I couldn’t believe it, either!

JULEP – Cocktail Bar – My favorite happy hour spot in KC.  They have happy hour Monday – Friday from 3-6pm they have $6 Old Fashioneds, Sazaracs, Manhattans, and Whiskey Sours.  I love a good library ladder especially when the climb up is to get some good bourbons and whiskeys and boy did they have a selection.

As for food, we got the BBQ potato chips which were smoky and almost tasted like they had a hint of curry powder on them which paired perfectly with our bourbon cocktails. The cheese board included pickled cherry tomatoes, onions, pickles, fresh bread, salami, pepperoni, & bologna. On the cheese front there was a super soft chèvre and a sharp yellow cheddar.  Yum!

GRINDERS – Lunch – Eclectic dive bar feel with a delicious Philly cheesesteak with provolone sauteed onions and green peppers. They are even served on fresh Amoroso rolls. I mean… I know my cheese steaks (as a Philly girl). Crinkle fries cooked to perfection with Cajun spices and the tater tots had the perfect amount of crunch!

TROLLEY TOUR – This hour and a half long trolley tour starting from Union Station was a great way for us to get the lay of the land on our first day of the trip. Make sure you stop in to look around Union Station since it is stunning.  We were able to get some great tips of other activities to do while we were in KC. We learned that the art museums were all free and that Hallmark was founded in KC.  Can you believe it?  All of my love for Hallmark movies and I didn’t realize their headquarters were right around the corner from me! **BONUS – We found out that the cable car is free all around the city (we took it and it’s super easy).  

OUR DAILY NADA – Restaurant/Bar/Booktore – This place was adorable – part bookstore part bar/restaurant. They have 4 drinks on their happy hour section for $7.  I got the Velvet Nights which was a well-balanced cocktail that had Ford’s Gin, Honey, and Ginger Beer.  Allison got the Huckleberry, made with Reiger’s Whiskey, lemon, and fresh muddled blackberries. Allison is more of a lover of whiskey than fruit, it wasn’t her favorite, but I always love a good blackberry whiskey combo.

THE TOY & MINIATURE MUSEUM – Museum – This is the best $5 you will spend in KC.  The entire first floor is filled with mini furniture, rooms, etc. Many of the miniatures were made in the past 20 years by artists recreating famous pieces of furniture and art in super miniature scales, it is very fascinating.  The second floor holds all kids toys from the 1880’s on.  It was fun to see all of the toys that my parents and I played with over the years. 

THE NELSON-ATKINS MUSEUM OF ART – Museum – Gorgeous (free!) museum with a good mix of impressionist pieces (my favorite) along with modern art.  I love the juxtaposition of the shuttlecocks outside of the old museum set back along the great lawn. 

If you are in the neighborhood…

GRAM & DUN – Restaurant – Breakfast at this place starts at 9:30 am and it’s no surprise that we were the first ones there.  This is a cozy little spot that has table side cocktail service and yummy skillet breakfasts.  I had the short rib and potato  hash and Allison had the hash brown skillet.   Next time I would like to hit up this place for happy hour, they had a beautiful outdoor seating area with a fire pit.  There is a ton of great shopping around here, so make sure you save a little bit of time to window shop around this neighborhood.  

THE FARMHOUSE – Restaurant – Cheese curds were a must, they were basically the most perfect mozzarella stick you could ever eat… perfectly gooey on the inside with the perfect amount of crisp and crunch on the outside.  I ordered the happy hour drink wasn’t the most balanced, so I would skip the cocktails and grab a glass of wine or beer next time to drink with more cheese curds.

CHAR BAR – Bar –  A casual bar that would be a great place to hang out with a big group of friends.  They have a nice big outdoor section as well.  I had the KC Bier Co. Hefeweizen which was enjoyable. Lots of beers on tap and an extensive bottle list as well, they have lots of snack options during their happy hour from 3-6pm on weekdays. We had the deviled eggs with charred lobster and pea shoots for $5 (4 eggs per order).

BEER KITCHEN – Bar– Good if you’re looking for duh, beer! I had the Rise & Pine Dark Ale from Uinta Brewing Co. based out of Salt Lake City, Utah. It was dark, piney and very seasonally appropriate.  Allison got a Manhattan here that tasted more like pine, but they were super nice about switching it out for a glass of vino instead. 

TAVERNONNA – Restaurant – Allison and I shared the Nonna’s meatballs that came with 2 brisket meatballs both the size of tennis balls in a rich, thick red pomodoro and a lemon ricotta. This was one of the highlights, along with our waiter, Dylan, who was hysterical. Inside the Hotel Phillips.

P.S. – Bar – Beautiful speakeasy underneath the Hotel Phillips.  In order to get to the speakeasy, you need to go to the reception desk and they will lead you downstairs.  The bar itself is everything that you want a speakeasy to be.  Dimly list, dark wood paneling and dark green velvet booths.  We sat at the bar and had our carefully curated drinks. I’m not sure if it’s because we were expecting live jazz music or if it was because it was our last stop of the night, but I was a little underwhelmed. 

STROUDS – Lunch – This place is like stepping back in time with the wooden paneling on the walls and the red and white checked table cloths.  Allison and I shared the fried chicken lunch along with bowls of mashed potatoes, gravy, green beans, cinnamon buns and a salad covered in homemade ranch dressing (I was in heaven). This was one of our stops on our “Best Thing I Ever Ate tour”, I wouldn’t necessarily give it that title, but we were glad we tried it.   Thank goodness we shared because it looked more like a Thanksgiving dinner spread than a lunch for one.  We had the sweetest waitress named Elaine that really made us feel welcome. 

JOE’S KANSAS CITY BAR-B-CUE – This is the famous BBQ spot that is in the gas station.  We had to wait about 45 minutes to an hour to get our food, but it was ok because we still had bellies full of fried chicken. I was impressed at how friendly and efficient they were when you finally got to the front of the line to order your food.  We shared the ribs, brisket, and the coleslaw.  It was tasty, but I’m not sure if would have wanted to wait in line for an hour if I was super hungry. 

EXTRA VIRGIN – Restaurant – We came here because it was on the “Best Thing I Ever Ate” for their Duck Tongue Tacos with slaw and queso fresco.  It was good, but honestly, I was hoping that it would be more flavorful. I enjoyed the Persimmon and Garfunkel cocktail (great name) which was a persimmon, sage spritzer that was light, and bright, but is still seasonally appropriate for late fall.  We also had the charred Brussels sprouts with feta, lemon, and bacon and a Greek salad dressed to perfection. 
We ended our meal with the ahi tuna ceviche with rice cracker and Calabrian chili.  It was good, but the chili on this really took over the dish.

SoT – Bar – Adorable cocktail bar with carefully curated drinks.  Trendy decor and cozy seating areas make for a comfortable environment to sip away and catch up with old friends or a spot to make new ones.  

THE BELFRY – Restaurant – Small cozy bar/dinner spot.  We had the cauliflower with a miso-walnut sauce, hot nachos, and I guess it was finally time for some greens.  

WORLD WAR I MUSEUM – There were so many interesting things about this museum, but there was a lot of ground to cover.  The museum was big and where were so many little signs to read that I feel like I missed some of the bigger picture.  I wished that there were a few more videos that would have given more of a refresher as to what WWI was all about.  

Don’t bother…

GATES BBQ – We had heard a lot about Gates both from the “Best Thing I Ever Ate” fame and while around town.  To be fair, we only had the item suggested on the BTIEA, the Burnt Ends on a Bun. But overall it wasn’t my kind of sandwich.  It was very saucy and filled with little chunks of fat and gristle.  Inside, the atmosphere was very dark and dated, many locals and tourists alike  seem to really love this place, but it just wasn’t for me.  

THE KANSAS CITY AIRPORT – Unfortunately, you have no choice but to hit this spot unless you are diving into Kansas City.  However, this was a source of some travel frustration for us…. they didn’t have TSA pre-check and we didn’t realize that the only thing past security was our gate. Leaving us unable to get a coffee prior to boarding our 7am flight (watch out world).  Even our Starbucks sandwich got a TSA patdown. If you’re thinking about coming to Kansas City consider yourself warned. : )

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Austin barbecue: everything you need to know

If there’s one thing people ask me the most about Austin it’s where to get the best barbecue. Not only is Austin smack-dab in the heart of Texas BBQ country, but there are a huge number of choices about where to get your ‘cue. To make matters worse, the “Best BBQ” is a hot topic around those parts (and these parts) with a lot of different opinions, bogus or conflicting information and just plain bad taste. So, that all being said–assuming you trust my taste (otherwise why are you even reading this drivel)–let me contribute one more set of opinions to the pool : )

I would definitely trust this guy’s opinions on BBQ…

Don’t miss

Franklin Barbecue
Don’t get me wrong, this is definitely the best Texas-style BBQ I think I’ve ever had. Everything is delicious, even the potato salad (which I generally hate), the flavors are pure and meaty and smokey and the people at the counter are somehow pleasant despite the never-ending waves of people ordering way too much barbecue. The problem is the line; no food is so good it’s worth waiting 3 hours for on a good day. If you somehow manage to get this barbecue without waiting in line for it, then do whatever you have to do. But I just can’t condone spending that much time standing around when there are places almost as good with nowhere near as much of a line.

Note if you have a bunch of friends and a stack of cash as well as some forethought, you can pre-order BBQ from Franklin. You need to order at least five pounds of meat, which all in all will likely set you back $150 or more, and you’ll have to find somewhere besides the restaurant to eat it, but if that works for you it is a good way to avoid the line.

La Barbecue
On a good day, the brisket here is just as good as Franklin’s (see above). Unfortunately on a good day the line here seems to move just as slowly than Franklin’s (if not more so!) It’s too bad because the meat is super-duper good as are the crazy sandwiches they put together (the sides are just ok), but I still feel like you can get barbecue which is almost as good without being made to feel like cattle to the slaughter, being slowly herded to your beefy demise (ok, fine, it is kind of a weird analogy). Go to nearby Kerlin BBQ and then spend your extra free hour enjoying the outdoors by Town Lake or climbing at ABP or something!

That said, pre-ordering is also possible at La Barbecue and they only require pre-orders to be one pound of meat (as opposed to the five pound minimum for pre-ordering at Franklin, see above), so it is more reasonable for one or two people to try it. You still need to be able to plan ahead at least three days (something I am very not good at) and find somewhere to eat it, but in my opinion this is by far the best way to get your hands on some of the best BBQ I’ve ever tasted.

Micklethwait Craft Meats
Micklethwait is my favorite spot for BBQ in Austin. It may not strictly be the best pure BBQ in Austin (see Franklin Barbecue and La Barbecue, above), but it is very close and you will not have to wait nearly as long for it. Plus they are bit more creative with their meats and sides than either of the two above, which is especially refreshing if you are on a barbecue marathon (quite common around these parts, I assure you). The meats are always moist and delicious, especially the brisket and smoked beef rib and I love that they have lamb and barbacoa as options too. Normally sides at a really good BBQ place are basically an afterthought for the kitchen, but you should not skip the delicious and unique grits, which are some of my favorite BBQ sides ever.

Barbacoa and brisket plate with grits and beans and a Diet Coke because we are apparently watching our figures.

Pro-tip: it is pronounced “Mickle wait”; the t and the h are apparently silent. So now you can look, eat and sound like a a BBQ expert.

Kerlin BBQ
Kerlin is a close second for me in terms of the best accessible BBQ in Austin. I love the location, I could basically spend the entire day on this block or two of Cesar Chavez, bouncing between Veracruz and Kerlin and Flat Track  and Weather Up. The brisket at Kerlin is smokey and fatty but not too fatty–simply perfect on a slice of white bread with a pickle, a slice of raw onion and a drizzle of BBQ sauce. To me it is pure, traditional BBQ the way the good Lord intended (to use a phrase I picked up in Texas).

And, just when you thought this was some boring old trailer serving boring old “traditional” BBQ: bam! Smoked corn on the cob! Boom! BBQ kolaches!  The kolaches are awesome, even if they didn’t serve anything else this would probably be one of my favorite trailers in Austin. Don’t miss it!

Maybe not for everyone/if you are in the neighborhood

Terry Black’s Barbecue
Terry Black’s and Black’s (below) are apparently owned by the same family, so they are both about the same in terms of barbecue: solid, dependable, good brisket, good sides. Usually short lines make these good choices for a lunch break when you have a real job and don’t have time to stand in line for barbecue for 2 hours. Also they do catering pretty well so they are good choices for getting lunch for you and your twenty closest friends (which is something you often have to do when on a recruiting trip).

Lamberts
Lamberts is not the best barbecue in Austin, but it does have some other things going for it. For one, it’s right downtown so if you are not in the mood to drive (or at least get in an Uber) then it is probably very accesible to where you’re staying (although that benefit is mitigated these days by the presence of Cooper’s Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que Austin, below). Secondly, it’s fancy, so if you need a BBQ place to go with your parents who will not be happy about eating at a trailer or on a picnic table then this could be your spot. Thirdly, it’s open for dinner, which is not necessarily a given for BBQ joints, so again, could be a good choice for dinner with your parents or someone else you want to show that you have at least a modicum of class (suffice it to say I never feel the need to come here ; )

Black’s BBQ
Terry Black’s (above) and Black’s are apparently owned by the same family, so they are both about the same in terms of barbecue: solid, dependable, good brisket, good sides. Personally I think the meat at Black’s is a bit better but Terry Black’s edges past on the sides. It’s really splitting hairs though. Usually short lines make these good choices for a lunch break when you have a real job and don’t have time to stand in line for Franklin or La Barbecue.

Stiles Switch BBQ and Brew
Solid choice for smoked meats in North Austin, there is usually not too much of a line and there is pretty ample space for seating inside. Brisket is generally if not perfectly moist but the jalapeno-cheddar sausage could use a bit more cheddar and jalapenos. Corn casserole is a brilliant combination of corn bread and creamed corn and a can’t-miss side. Not necessarily worth the trip out of your way but a good option if you happen to be craving BBQ in that part of town.

Brisket and jalapeno-cheddar sausage plate from Stiles Switch BBQ and Brew

Don’t bother

Kreuz Market
Kreuz Market is one of the three well-known old-school BBQ joints in Lockhart, Texas, about 45 minutes south of Austin. It has been serving smoked meats for more than 100 years and making the trip to Lockhart feels like a pilgrimage to BBQ mecca, but it feels to me like it’s resting on its laurels a bit at this point. The brisket is dry and they are militantly anti-sauce (and anti-utensils) which doesn’t help. Supposedly they are known for their smoked sausages, which were good, but not demonstrably better than the smoked sausages you can get at basically all the other BBQ places above. (Plus have you ever really had a bad smoked sausage?) I would not say it is worth the trip or even the stop if you are already in or near Lockhart for some other reason.

Iron Works Barbecue
It’s got a cool “old-timey barbecue” vibe inside, but unfortunately the meats and sides fall flat; they are nothing to write home about and with so many other great barbecue options nearby there is not much reason I can find to come back here.

Snow’s BBQ
It was a long drive out to Lexington on a cold, bright and early Saturday morning so maybe I was expecting too much but I was underwhelmed by the barbecue here. The brisket was not dry but neither was it particularly moist. Certainly it was not special enough to go an hour out of your way at 7:00a; maybe I got it on a bad day but I just can’t recommend it unless you are somehow already in Lexington at 8:00a on a Saturday (which you would definitely never be, I am quite sure).

The Salt Lick
This place looks cool on TV shows and it feels authentic being in the middle of nowhere outside of Austin but it is legitimately not good BBQ. It is basically a big barbecue factory, with all the negative connotations that phrase implies. Very disappointing; I cannot recommend it at all.