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CFB: The Finger Lakes

What if there were a place nearby to New York City where the people are friendly, the food and booze are delicious and the scenery is beautfiul? Don’t believe it? Neither did we. That’s why it’s been almost 12 years that Bryn and I have lived in New York but have not visited the Finger Lakes region. Not because we thought it would suck, but just because it we figured it couldn’t really be as good as it sounds.

But on this account, we definitely stand corrected. We drove up just for a short weekend, but everywhere we stopped we found friendly, genuine people who are passionate about what they do. Everywhere we looked we saw Norman Rockwell-worthy scenery.

It’s easy to feel a connection to a place that seems so full of genuine and frinedly people and even in just a short visit I think Bryn and I felt that connection to the Finger Lakes region quite strongly.Don’t miss

Don’t miss

F.L.X. Provisions – Wine Store – Geneva
There is a mini-empire of related businesses all across the Finger Lakes; the “F.L.X.” empire is probably the thing about the Finger Lakes that impressed me the most. While we could not get one of the coveted spots at F.L.X. Table, we did discover this gem of a wine store basically next door (it’s connected to the F.L.X. Fry Bird, which is a fried chicken restaurant–see below–that is next to F.L.X. Table). Not only has this great little shop done the hard work for you to find the best wines from the best wineries in the Finger Lakes–if you see a bottle of wine in this shop it is going to be a good bottle of wine from a good winery–but because they have a Coravin hooked up to a huge tank of argon (I guess it’s argon?) you can taste any wine they have in the shop at very reasonable prices, including wines from Element Winery, which is the winery owned by the F.L.X. team.

I really loved F.L.X. Provisions–it’s my kind of shop–and loved chatting with the manager Donovan who led us through our tastings and geeked out hardcore with me about all things booze, much to Bryn’s chagrin. They also have a great beer selection and you can drink anything you buy in the store at the Fry Bird restaurant too. I can’t really recommend it highly enough. The only drawback is it’s pretty small so there is room for about 4 people to do a tasting at once. During high season it might be worth calling ahead to see if they can slot you in at a specific time.

F.L.X. Wienery – American – Dundee
In case you can’t tell from above, I am a big fan of what they are doing at the “F.L.X.” family of companies, and especially what they are doing at the Wienery. Yes it’s a hot dog restaurant, but it’s also so much more. The wieners and sausages are delicious of course, but the real gem is their crazy and amazing beverage program (yes, it’s a hot dog shop with top-notch booze) and their Saturday night specials (known as “Dundoit Socials” they are basically crazy ideas for a party that come to life every Saturday night, with different themes like Tequila and Tacos or Ramen with a Master Sommelier).

  • F.L.X. Wienery: don’t judge this book by its cover

Maybe the coolest thing about F.L.X. Wienery (or in fact any restaurant I’ve ever been to) is their “Secret Wine Fridge”. It’s a wine fridge in the middle of the restaurant that has no printed list of what’s inside, but you are welcome to look through it and if you find something you like you can buy it and drink it, and there are some serious bottles of wine in there. Their actual (non-secret?) wine list is also legit and they even have DRC on the list, as if it’s not weird to have a $1500 bottle of wine with your $5 hot dog. They have a super-legit beer selection and in case somehow you are not impressed yet they have a crazy good spirits menu with some of the heaviest hitters around (Pappy Van Winkle 23-year-old and George T. Stagg for example). This is exactly what a restaurant should be–cool, casual and welcoming but still pushing the envelope with impeccable taste in everything they do.

Kemmeter Wines – Winery – Penn Yan
If you only visit one winery in the Finger Lakes, I would make it this one. Johannes who owns the winery with his wife, is such a fantastic guy who makes really excellent Rieslings. Make sure you call ahead to schedule an appointment since tastings are by appointment only. You won’t regret the effort since spending time with anyone so genuine and passionate is an unfortunately rare treat these days. In case that is not incentive enough, you will also get to taste some cracking-good wines at the same time. How can you go wrong?

Our tasting of 4 fantastic Rieslings at Kemmeter Wines

Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard – Winery – Dundee
If you only visit two wineries in the Finger Lakes, I would stop here after (or before) Kemmeter Wines (see above). You can call ahead to setup a special Riesling tasting but you don’t need to make an appointment. All their wines are very good but some of their wines–especially the single-vineyard rieslings–are truly excellent and worth tasting at any opportunity. My only (minor) complaint is the wines are more expensive than you might expect when buying direct from the winery, but not so expensive that I would not go back.

  • Tasting room at HJW
  • Just a part of the Riesling tasting at HJW

Argos Inn – Hotel – Ithaca
Staying in Ithaca is not necessarily the best choice for exploring the Finger Lakes region, especially if you are planning to spend the majority of your time visiting wineries–the best of which are mostly clustered around Seneca and Keuka Lakes. But Ithaca is a slighlty more reasonable driving distance from NYC and it is the location of the Argos Inn, which is a totally great place to stay. We normally do not put too much stock into where we are staying–rarely do we need (or care for) more from a hotel than a bed and a hot shower, but we really loved the Argos Inn.

Not only is it a big, cool old house with nicely appointed rooms and heated bathroom floors (a great feature for an Ithaca winter), but it also has a great cocktail bar (Bar Argos) on the ground floor and across the parking lot there is another bar/lounge space (Argos Warehouse) that has a good (and different) cocktail menu plus snacks (including a really fantastic charcuterie plate). Overall a great hospitality experience that I would recommend to anyone staying in Ithaca. Even the coffee served at breakfast was acceptable, which is basically unheard-of for coffee from a free hotel breakfast.

  • Cocktails at Bar Argos
  • Cocktail and charcuterie at Argos Warehouse

Press Cafè – Coffee – Ithaca
If you do stay in Ithaca then make sure to start your mornings here; their coffee game is strong here. Single-origin drip coffee brewed and ready. Plus an an excellent flat white and a cool space to hang out as well as fresh, locally roasted beans for sale. It’s basically what every coffee shop should be. I’ll be back for sure next time I’m in Ithaca.

Flat whites and local beans at Press Cafe

Heart & Hands Wine Company – Winery – Springport
Small little tasting room on the east shore of Cayuga Lake that specializes in Pinot Noirs (they also make Rieslings, but their focus is the red grape). The Pinot Noirs are very good, the Rieslings are good, and the tasting room staff is friendly. When we were there on a Sunday afternoon the co-owner herself was pouring our tasting flights. Their attention to detail and vineyard knowledge is obvious and even though I am fairly skeptical of the weird glass corks they use, I am bullish on their wines and would stop by just to try them any time I am back in the Finger Lakes.

If you have time/are in the area

F.L.X. Fry Bird – Fried Chicken – Geneva
It’s a pretty small place so it can get packed at peak times. The popcorn chicken was fine; it had a somewhat funny, almost cheesy taste that I couldn’t get past although it may have been the dipping sauce and not the chicken itself. The collard greens side was excellent though and so is the drink selection when you consider you can bring something in from F.L.X. Provisions (see above) next door. I’d give it another shot next time I’m near Geneva and need a fried chicken fix, though maybe I would go for a sandwich rather than the popcorn chicken.

Nickel’s Pit BBQ – Barbecue – Watkins Glen
We came very early on a Saturday evening after visiting wineries and got seated right away, but by the time we left there seemed like there was quite a wait. The no reservations policy can make it hard to time this place right and I would not say it is worth waiting for, but if you can get seated relatively quickly then I’d say go for it. If you do decide to wait a bit, they have good beers from Rooster Fish around the corner to help pass the time ; ) We had the pulled pork sandwich and an order of the smoked chicken wings. Both were perfectly cooked and very delicious, although somewhat lacking in that essential BBQ smoke flavor that is pervasive in really great ‘cue (although the room itself basically smelled like a campfire so maybe my senses were thrown off).

Prison City Pub and Brewery – Brewpub – Auburn
Auburn does not seem a likely stop on your tour of the Finger Lakes region, but if you are in the area (Heart & Hands Wine Company–see above–is relatively close) then I would definitely recommend stopping here for some delicious craft beers, including an excellent chocolatey porter and a solid, fruity and hazy New England IPA. But don’t sleep on the food, as their burgers are real good and they make an awesome, if slightly non-traditional, poutine. A great place to spend an evening watching a game with friends.

Dope poutine and beers at Prison City Pub and Brewery

Thompson and Bleecker – Pizza – Ithaca
Apparently this brick-oven pizza place is a big deal for Ithaca since they have been wandering through the pizza desert for a long time, at least that’s the impression I got. At this point I think Thompson and Bleecker is more mirage than promised land, but that is not to say it doesn’t have any potential. The space has nailed the hipster vibe with mismatched china pattern plates and tight spaces between tables. The wine list is intriguing but it always drives me crazy when there are no vintages printed on the wine menu (since I am a pretty severe age-ist when it comes to wine) and since we had basically been drinking all day we didn’t order any drinks with our food.

Hambo pizza: crispy on the outside, but not quite in the middle

Speaking of the food, the Prasini salad had good flavor but needed some textural element to break up the monotony of chopped lettuce, dill and scallion. The Hambo pizza–which we split–also had good flavor components but the large slices of ham coupled with the fact that the pizza was slightly undercooked in the middle meant that all the cheese and toppings came off in one bite–the ultimate pizza fail. That said, the flavors were good and the crust was nicely charred ad crisp on the outer edge like it’s supposed to be, so if they can figure out how to get the middle of the pizza cooked perfectly then they will really have something worth seeking out.

Don’t bother

Seneca Lake Wine Trail Deck The Halls Weekend – Event – Seneca Lake Region
We did not do this, but we were in town at the same time as this event and in tasting at various wineries that were not part of the event it became very clear that not being a part of it was a good idea. It’s basically old-people SantaCon with Finger Lakes wineries instead of New York City bars. If that sounds good to you then I think you are probably reading the wrong blog?

Other than Old-people SantaCon I don’t think there was anything else that we did or saw that was out-and-out not worth our time. Which, frankly, seems impossible. But maybe that’s the cynical New Yorker in me speaking–maybe it is possible in a place like the Finger Lakes where people are friendly and genuinely care about what they do. Shame on us for not making that discovery sooner.

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CFB Lisbon: basically everything you need to know

If you have read our guide to Porto, the Douro and beyond, you already know that Portuguese people are some of the most friendly and helpful people you will come across in your travels.  They all seem to speak good to excellent English and are almost always trying to help if they are trying to get your attention. Use that to your advantage instead of fighting to do something yourself. Even in a city like Lisbon where it sometimes feels like tourists outnumber the locals, it seems Portuguese people are just as friendly and happy you are there as can be.

Especially important in Lisbon in the fact that when it comes to CFB, Portugal is a lunch country. On Saturday or Sunday especially if you don’t have a reservation for lunch then you will be waiting for a table. Also there are not really any “grab-and-go” type places for lunch; almost everywhere worth eating lunch will be a proper restaurant with table service and everything. This was a very difficult reality for me to grasp so don’t fall into the same trap I did—plan where you want to eat lunch (especially on or around the weekends) and make reservations.

See our guide to Porto, the Douro and beyond for more basic Portugal knowledge, but see below for all the best coffee, food and booze Lisbon has to offer!

Don’t miss

Enoteca De Belém – Lisbon – Restaurant/Wine Bar
Definitely go here if you like wine and elevated food and service. It’s small so make reservations or be willing to walk around for a while, especially if it’s the weekend, but the food is awesome, the wine is excellent and everything about the service is perfect, including their English. It’s a wonderful choice in otherwise touristy Belém.

Alma – Lisbon – Restaurant
Legitimately one of the best meals of my life. The only miss was this weird shrimp appetizer that tasted like it was made from three-day old shrimp. Other than that the food, wines and service were all amazing and the meal—while very expensive if you spring for the big tasting and wine pairing—was well worth the price paid.

A Cevicheria – Lisbon – Restaurant
Totally delicious and worth the wait (for about 45 minutes or so, anyway). Small settings and small portions to match but the food is extra delicious. The host is very friendly and you can have a drink on the sidewalk (lol, Europe) while you wait. Plus your wife can get that Instagram shot of the octopus hanging from the ceiling that she has been dying to get, so that’s good too.

  • Gaspacho
  • Ceviche
  • BBQ Pulpo

REAL Slow Retail Concept Store – Lisbon – Shopping 
Put your name on the list for A Cevicheria and head on over to check out this haunt.  An adorable concept shop with everything from shoes and beach bags to jewelry and sunglasses.  Everything is well merchandised and their price points are all realistic (woohoo!).  I got an amazing pair of suede espadrilles for around $50 USD.

Manteigaria Fábrica de Pastéis de Nata – Lisbon – Pastry Shop
I figured they would not live up to the hype…I was wrong! These pasteis are the best I have tried in all of Portugal, including the Pasteis de Belém. Fresh out of the oven they are basically heaven and they seem to always be fresh out of the oven. Unlike the Pasteis de Belém, these are worth waiting in line (at least for a little while) for.

The Wine Cellar – Lisbon – Restaurant/Wine Bar
No relation to the Wine Barrels in Porto (see above), but still have a good selection of wines from Portugal including many choices by the glass. Some can be a bit on the expensive side but the staff is friendly and helpful and will try to get you what you are looking for at any price point. They also speak excellent English. No matter what you’re drinking, order the cheese board; all six cheeses (all from Portugal) were fantastic. It’s small so come early or make reservations.

FÁBRICA COFFEE ROASTERS/FÁBRICA COFFEE SHOP – Lisbon – Coffee
Five stars for the coffee—one of the best shots of espresso I’ve had in a long time was pulled from their black La Marzocco. All the flavor components of the coffee were noticeable and harmonious; very well done. I do wish they had a stronger savory breakfast game; some toast and jam with poached eggs would be perfect. The roastery location (on R. das Portas de Santo Antão) was a bit better than the shop (on R. das Flores) in my experience.

AMO Brewery – Lisbon – Brewery/Tap Room
Super low-key spot to hang out on Thursday or Friday nights. There are literally just like two tables but basically everyone kind of makes it work; it could not be more chill. It’s in a very residential (i.e. not touristy) area of Lisbon which is a nice respite. The people who work there are also awesome—super friendly and chill. Plus the beer is legit, especially the Chocolate Porter if they still have any left.

Dear breakfast – Lisbon – Breakfast/Brunch
The coffee is solid but NB for Americans a “cappuccino” here (and I guess elsewhere in Lisbon?) has chocolate in it. Not bad, but if you want something like what you get at home when you ask for a cappuccino then ask for a latte. The food is also solid if not amazing, but I think the real draw for most of the people here is the beautiful, Instagram-worthy interior. Staff is really friendly and speak excellent English. Makes it into “Don’t Miss” because of the strong coffee game.

Wish Slow Coffee House – Lisbon – Coffee
Five stars for the flat white—probably the best I had in Lisbon. Did not try the food but the espresso from their Kees Van Der Westen is definitely legit.

bikeiberia Tours & Rentals – Lisbon – Bicycle Rentals
Very friendly and helpful service to rent some bikes for the day to cruise along the river. Reserve ahead or show up early, especially for the weekend. Cash only.

Lisbon Bike Rentals – Lisbon – Bicycle Rentals
Nice bikes, friendly and helpful staff that speaks great English. This is place to rent a nice road bike for a ride to Sintra or Cascais (as opposed to bikeiberia above for just tooling around the riverfront for the day).

If you have time/maybe not for everyone

Livraria Sá da Costa – Lisbon – Bookstore
Cool old with old books and an interesting selection of very old (though possibly fake, based on google maps reviews?) maps. I would probably not buy anything here but it’s a cool place to wander around.

Bistro 100 Maneiras – Lisbon – Restaurant/Cocktail Bar
I’m very torn about this place. On the one hand, excellent cocktails as well as delicious and creative elevated bistro fare. On the other hand, the service was very weird with long pauses in between drink orders but almost no time in between courses. The servers themselves seemed competent but it just seemed like maybe they were short staffed and maybe the kitchen was overstaffed or something? It was a very weird experience to get the main course so quickly but to have the second round of drinks to go with the main course take so long. I would go back since there is a lot of promise, but I would make sure to arrive 30-45 minutes early to have a cocktail at the bar and just order a bottle of wine with dinner ; )

Azul – Lisbon – Restaurant
Good place to get your gooseneck barnacle fix! Conveniently located in the TimeOut market. They were pretty cool and actually quite delicious. I can’t say for sure about the quality or deliciousness of anything else they serve but I’d go back for more barnacles.

Pasteis de Belém – Lisbon – Pastry Shop
The pastries are good and this place is a sight to behold in just its sheer size but honestly they are not so special you need to wait a long time for them. Plus if you are like me then the chaos inside this place will drive you crazy. Note there are lines for take-away that snake outside and a different line way inside the dining area for table service. Apparently the table service line is usually shorter.

Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto – Lisbon – Wine Bar
Don’t come here expecting help (or any form of service) from the servers, but do come here hoping they have a glass or bottle of a port you love because if they do then it will be available at the best possible price. Maybe the only place in all of Portugal where we got some attitude for not speaking Portuguese.

Ze MOURARIA – Lisbon – Restaurant
I guess this is a traditional Portuguese restaurant, so if you want to experience what that is like then this could be your place. The food is fine: tasty but nothing to write home about (except that the portions are obscenely large). Very friendly and accommodating staff with at least some servers speaking good English but if you are trying to come on a weekend at prime time (around 1:00p-2:00p) then make sure you have a reservation.

Duque Brewpub – Lisbon – Brew Pub
Good selection of beers on tap but only one was brewed in house? I thought this was a brewpub : ) Anyway, the beer I tried was a bottle of bourbon vanilla porter but it was pretty lackluster. The meat board was solid though. All in all a solid if unspectacular place to get some craft beer in Lisbon…I’d just recommend sticking to what’s on tap.

Garrafeira Alfaia – Lisbon – Wine Bar
Fairly touristy-seeming, small wine bar of no major interest.  Nothing bad about this place just nothing outstanding either. Could be a good place to drink a bottle while waiting for something else (a table somewhere maybe)?

Lisbon Winery – Lisbon – Restaurant/Wine Bar
Decent wine bar with large list of bottles though a little on the expensive side. Food was lackluster, I would just drink here or maybe go for something safe like a meat and cheese board.

Don’t bother

Boi Cavalo – Lisbon – Restaurant
Maybe this restaurant is an elaborate practical joke on foodies? If so, then bravo. Not only was the service so disjointed that it was uncomfortable, but the food coming out of the kitchen was totally lackluster and almost non-sensical. The first course tasted like nothing because the two components themselves tasted like nothing. The second course tasted like nothing because the three components had nothing to do with each other and all the flavors just got muddled together. The main course was rabbit chops, which are exactly as tiny as they sound like they would be and exactly as annoying to eat as you would assume. Not only that, but they were paired with whole beans (similar to favas), snails and a fried dough kind of thing that is apparently traditional in Portugal (?) There was nothing tying all these ingredients together, just four ingredients on a plate, arranged somewhat artistically. It was just a disappointment, from start to finish, which is sad because there is a lot of potential here but it just seems like the kitchen is trying too hard to be creative with flavors and ingredients instead of focusing on the things that make a restaurant successful: delicious food and strong service.

Loja das Conservas Petiscos – Lisbon – Tapas
Creative idea, but just not hitting on the execution. It wasn’t bad—in fact some petiscos were enjoyable (tuna pate, samosas) and the staff was very friendly and spoke very good English—but overall it was just not anything special, and it’s not like there is a shortage of better places for a drink and a snack in the area.

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CFB Porto, Douro and beyond: basically everything you need to know

The Douro Valley

Portuguese people are almost impossibly friendly and helpful and they all seem to speak good to excellent English since I think it is mandatory in schools. So if someone is trying to get your attention it is way more likely that they are trying to help you than scam you…unlike in some other countries [cough, Morocco, cough]. I would suggest using Portuguese people as a resource rather than fighting to do something yourself.

A very important fact when it comes to CFB: Portugal is a lunch country. On Saturday or Sunday especially if you don’t have a reservation for lunch then you will be waiting for a table. Also there are not really any “grab-and-go” type places for lunch; almost everywhere worth eating lunch will be a proper restaurant with table service and everything. This was a very difficult reality for me to grasp so don’t fall into the same trap I did—plan where you want to eat lunch (especially on or around the weekends) and make reservations.

As an added difficulty for someone like me, Portugal does not seem to be the most technologically savvy country. You will be extremely lucky even at the most sophisticated restaurants outside Lisbon to find some sort of online reservation capabilities. In some cases you won’t even have an email address, only a phone number to call. In these cases, see above regarding the friendliness and general proficiency in English of the population, and make the call to make sure you have a reservation (though it probably wouldn’t hurt to learn how to ask in Portuguese if someone is able to speak English). N.B. Just because Portugal is a lunch country that doesn’t mean you won’t also need reservations for dinner at fancier/popular restaurants like those you are likely to want to eat dinner at while on vacation.

One unfortunate thing about Portugal from a CFB perspective is the coffee is generally terrible. Even in Porto specialty coffee is scarce, in the Douro and beyond it is non-existent. I do not have a solution for this problem, I just want to make sure you are prepared : )

Finally, another unfortunate thing about Portugal that we learned the hard way that you may find useful if you plan on driving: they have a product at gas stations called “gasoleo simples”. Do not be fooled by the name; this is a kind of diesel fuel. Do not put it into a car that needs gasoline. Always look for “sem chumbo” on whatever fuel you are going to put into a car that needs gasoline. Trust me.

Anyway, on with the show…

Don’t miss

Quinta Nova Nossa Senhora do Carmo – Douro Valley – Hotel/Restaurant/Winery
If visiting the winery, be sure to book a tour as far in advance as possible, especially during the summer. The wines are very good and even if you don’t get on a tour you can still sit and look out over the beautiful vistas onto the Douro valley while tasting some of the wines. Just fyi, it’s a long drive to get here, from either direction, so take that into account if you’re planning to visit other wineries.

Quinta Santa Julia – Douro Valley – Hotel
Perched at the top of the hill, the views are amazing. The vines and gardens are beautiful and the house is charmingly old (i.e. dark and slightly claustrophobic) and giant and you can just feel the history. Staying here is more like staying with an old relative than at a hotel, and Eduardo, the owner of the house, is an absolute joy to sit and talk with the way you might enjoy sitting and talking to your grandpa who lived an awesome life.

View from Quinta Santa Julia

Restaurante Castas e Pratos – Douro Valley – Restaurant
Huge wine list with excellent selections by the glass in both table wines and dessert wines as well as solid, composed food.

DOC – Chef Rui Paula – Douro Valley – Restaurant
Costs and arm and a leg but the food (and wine) was so good. I had the roast baby goat with oven rice and it was so perfect. I could eat it every day, especially paired with the Rebolar tinto by the glass. Plus the view is amazing from the deck across the river and the valley. Make a reservation.

Al fresco dining at DOC

The Wine Barrels – Porto – Restaurant/Wine Bar
Legit wine professionals here (surprisingly, since it feels like a pretty touristy place). They take their wine and your experience drinking it very seriously; I really appreciated the dedication to the craft, as well as championing the small producers of the Douro Valley. Plus the meat and cheese board was pretty dope and they have vintage port by the glass! Check out their sister wine bar The Wine Box, as well.

Cafe Progresso – Porto – Coffee
Genuine La Marzocco so you know the coffee is legit. The scrambled eggs and toast breakfast combo was good if a bit plain (could use some jam for that toast). They have single origin espresso options and speak very good English.

Combi Coffee – Porto – Coffee
Best coffee that I tasted in Porto. They roast their own beans and have multiple single origin options for espresso. Plus their Pastel de Nata is the best I tried in Porto. Very cool/hip ambience and perfect English is spoken by all the staff.

Casa Guedes – Porto – Sandwiches
Don’t be fooled by anything else on the menu—the sande com pernil e queijo is the way to go. They are small though so maybe get two per person or some fries or soup. But man those pork sandwiches are basically perfect

Época Porto – Porto – Breakfast
The sourdough bread and eggs with Turkish spices is so good it makes me upset. I could probably eat that every single morning. Plus, really good coffee, cute and cool decor, and English-speaking staff; I loved this place.

7groaster – Porto – Coffee
Solid coffee and a very cool ambience. They roast their own beans and have multiple coffee options (espresso and brewed coffee). They have food as well which—except for the so-so pastel de nata—we did not try, but as far as acceptable coffee goes in Villa Nova de Gaia I’m sure this is your best bet.

If you have time/maybe not for everyone

Quinta do Vallado – Douro Valley – Winery/Hotel
The winery tour is decent and the winery is beautiful but the wines you taste at the end are mediocre. Personally, I would probably choose a different winery to tour if I were to do it all over again.

Offley – Porto – Winery
Next time I would probably just skip the tour and the lackluster tasting (even the Barão de Forrester tasting was lackluster) and go straight to the tasting room on R. Costa Santos for either the €15 flight of aged tawnies (10-, 20- and 30-year old) or a €7.50 glass of one of the vintage ports.

Caves São João – Aveiro – Winery
Great wines, especially the Poco do Lobo wines (both the Arinto and the Cabernet Sauvignon) from the 90’s make it worth seeking out. Your guess is as good as mine as to where you’re supposed to park, but assuming you do find somewhere then you should know that tours are given every weekday at 10:30a and 3:00p. If you happen to show up at a different time they will still sell you wine and they have a huge list of current as well as older vintages for very reasonable prices. It would be nice if the website were more up to date and the entrance was a bit more…welcoming, but I guess that’s Portugal for you.

Quinta do Noval – Porto – Winery
No tours here, just tastings. The ports are good but there are no options for just a glass of vintage port; you have to buy a bottle or do one of the tasting flights in order to taste a vintage port. They did however have a colheita by the glass and their 20 year old tawny is very nice indeed, with a wonderful cocoa and leather nose, at a fairly reasonable price of €8.50 a glass.

Caves Vasconcellos – Porto – Winery
I really wanted to like this place because the tour is private and it is a small producer of port and our guide Jorge was very passionate, but in the end I just found their ports to be a bit too thin and racy for my tastes, and there was kind of an awkward, simultaneously hard and soft sell to get us to buy something—seemingly anything—at the end of our tour and tasting that I was not a fan of.

ODE Porto Wine House – Porto – Restaurant
Four stars for the creative, artistic and (most importantly) delicious dishes and delightful Portuguese wine pairings. It would be a very good choice for a special occasion but it’s way too expensive to be a regular visit. Minus one star for being so expensive and not accepting credit cards; two people will need at least €200 in cash and most likely more if you really want to enjoy yourselves. [Update: apparently they now do take credit cards, which would take it up a notch in my book, but I have not verified this.]

ALOJAMENTO BATATA – Nazare – Hotel
I would not necessarily recommend Nazare overall, but in case you are there or want to go there for some specific reason, this is a wonderful space to stay with modern but comfortable decor and very welcoming staff! Apartments are perfect for a beach vacation in Nazaré; good location and value.

Fishing boats on the Nazare beach

Casa Pires – A Sardinha – Nazare – Restaurant
If it’s not sardine season, go for the fish stew with potatoes. Heck even if it is sardine season maybe still go for the fish stew—it’s so delicious. There seemed to be a healthy mix of tourists and locals and the waiters speak good English in case you don’t speak good Portuguese : )

Queque de Cenoura – Nazare – Pastry Shop
Tooth-achingly sweet (in a good way!) pastries, and a super-duper pão com chouriço. The coffee is miserable, but I think that’s pretty standard for Portugal? Good luck finding a proper flat white in Nazaré. Perhaps most importantly though the staff is very friendly and helpful even though they don’t speak English; take your Google Translate app and you’ll be fine.

Taverna do 8 Ó 80 – Nazare – Restaurant/Wine Bar
Excellent tapas and very good steak (N.B. “veal rump steak” aka alcatra in Portuguese is much more tender than beef rump steak, so it is actually their best steak as the menu says). Good, extensive wine list. My only (admittedly snobbish and very minor) complaint is they have a lot of newer vintages, not very much that is more than just two or three years old. The staff is very friendly and helpful, especially in helping select a wine to drink, and they speak very good English.